深秋歐陸上河圖之三:荷蘭小孩堤防 Viking Grand European Tour – 3: Kinderdijk, Netherlands

上船的第二天,我們來到小孩堤防,參觀著名的風車群。由於在飛機上沒啥睡,而且時差又作怪,加上天色昏暗,灰濛濛的一片,令我這好”色”之徒的遊興大大打了折扣。

據說,一千年前,Alblasserwaard 這個地方是一個泥炭沼澤,位於兩河流(Lek & Noord)之间。最早來的拓荒者把住房建在稍高的沙丘地。漸漸,此地亦變成市鎮,愈來愈多人移居此地。位於較低的圩田(低窪開拓地)的居屋常受水澇之苦。人們雖然加高堤壩以應,但土壤沉積和地下水令水患持續,1421年水災傷亡眾多。所以就有了建風車的計劃。風車將水提至水塘再在河水水平稍低時引入河中排出(外海的潮汐亦會影響河水的水位)。現存的風車是1738年至1740年興建的。1997年,小孩堤防的風車更正式被聯合國納入世界文化遺產的明列之中!

相傳小孩堤防亦因這次洪水而得名。據說,洪水過後过后,人們去勘災救援,見到一個摇篮在水面上起漂浮,裡面竟有一只小貓伴著一小婴孩。

This was the second day of our river cruise, sleep deprivation on our flight to Amsterdam and jet lag was bugging me that morning. What’s more, the overcast weather had completely turned me off. During photo editing, I had to do a little twisting on Lightroom to be able to bring out the colors you see here.

Wikipedia – The windmills at Kinderdijk are a group of 19 monumental windmills in the Alblasserwaard polder, in the province of South Holland, Netherlands. Built in 1738 and 1740, to keep water out of the polder (低窪開拓地), it is the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands. They have been a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site since 1997.

上圖示出風車群位於Lek (1)河與Noord (2) 河之間。 中間開鑿有河道weteringen 排水。這些建於1738-1740的風車未有足夠動能直接將低窪地區(polder)的積水引至兩河,所以先將水引入水塘,待兩河水位降低時再引入兩河排出。

Wikipedia – Kinderdijk lies in the Alblasserwaard, at the confluence of the Lek (1 on the map) and Noord (2 on the map) rivers. In Alblasserwaard, problems with water became more and more apparent in the 13th century. Large canals, called “weteringen”, were dug to get rid of the excess water in the polders. However, the drained soil started setting, while the level of the river rose due to the river’s sand deposits. Most of the current mills were built in 1738 and 1740.After a few centuries, an additional way to keep the polders dry was required. It was decided to build a series of windmills, with a limited capacity to bridge water level differences, but just able to pump water into a reservoir at an intermediate level between the soil in the polder and the river; the reservoir could be let out into the river through locks whenever the river level was low enough; the river level has both seasonal and tidal variations.

這是 Wisboom 抽水站,1868-1924時用風車抽水,其後改為蒸氣推動,後再改為電力。如果沒記錯,這裡已改為展覽館。

Wisboom pumping station engine room (above). If my memory serves me well, this building is now a visitor center where there are exhibitions to show how excess water is drained from the polder, first by windmills and later on from 1868 to 1924, by a steam-powered pump which was replaced by electrical pump.

館內模型展示風車、低窪地和運河的配置和運作。

This model shows how windmills work to pump excess water out of the polders.

J.U. Smit 抽水站,這是柴油抽水站,在停車場就能看到將水由低沙洲轉移載至河中的三個巨型螺旋輪。

J.U. Smit pumping station.The diesel pump station uses three giant Archimedian screws, visible even on the parking lot, to carry millions liters of water/min from the Nederwaard (低沙洲) basins out into the river.

風車博物館。

Museummolen Nederwaard – Museum Mill

風車轉動,帶動𥚃面的勺子巨輪,將水由低沙洲轉到高沙洲。

The Scoop Wheel: The wooden windmills of the Overwaard (1740) use a scoop wheel to pump water from the Lower Basin to the Upper Basin.

風車內有空間僻為居室,室外有園圃種植蔬菜,供風車管理者生活起居之用。

Inside the wooden windmills of the Overwaard, there is enough space for a miller and his entire family.

我們自博物館出來,與導遊失散了,只好往回走了。

下面給大家介紹兩個app, 下載至手機,可作導覧之用。

Apps for Kinderdijk (the following links are for iphone, they are also available for Android)

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/kinderdijk-unesco-official/id1343241236

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/kinderdijk-visit-the-world-heritage/id1193200147

深秋歐陸上河圖之二:荷蘭阿姆斯特丹 Viking Grand European Tour – 2: Amsterdam, Netherlands

幾點說明- 1. 行文次序:我對布達配斯的 Matthias 教堂印象深刻,很自然的就想先從布達配斯着手整理。不過,在回顧了整個行程後,也許是天氣狀況使然,總覺得行程開始那兩天,景色沒有特別令人興奮,但自科隆開始就漸入佳景,愈來愈美,所以我也決定還是由阿姆斯特丹開始寫,希望也讓大家有”倒吃甘蔗“的感覺。2. 譯名:我沒有宗教信仰,喜歡看廟宇和教堂是出於對建築、雕塑和繪畫的愛好。我知道天主教和基督教對聖經人物的譯名並不一樣,所以盡量採用各自的中譯。不過限於個人識見,掛一漏萬,在所難免,還望看官見諒。那些實在不知道中文名的,就用英文或原文。

這次乘搭的船是維京Tir 號,Tir 在德國北方神祗文化中是英勇光榮之神。

Viking Tir – The son of Hymir in Norse mythology, Tir is the god of heroic glory.

亞姆斯特丹中央車站 Amsterdam Central Station

中央車站內是大型商場。

Inside the Central Station is a shopping plaza.

中央車站南方立面。

The facade of the Central Station, as seen from the Open Havenfront.

The facade of the Central Station, as seen from the Open Havenfront.

車站牆上精美的浮雕。

Relief on the facade of the Central Station.

車站前水道,叫 Open Havenfront。

Waterfront in front of the station, Open Havenfront.

中央車站是阿姆斯特丹的交通樞紐,有火車、船、電車和巴士服務。

The Central Station is the hub of transportation in Amsterdam. They have train, boat, tram and bus services there.

聖尼古拉斯大教堂,據說設計溶合幾種風格,但以新巴洛式和新文藝復興式為主。

Basilica Saint Nicholás, it is said that the church was designed based on a combination of styles, the most prominent being the Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance. 

聖尼古拉斯教堂。

Sint Nicolasskerk, Basilica of Saint Nicholas.

水道Open Havenfront 前的排屋。 Stack houses in front of the Open Havenfront.

沒想到竟然有中文街名。

In’t Aepien 是阿姆斯特丹有名的老酒吧,已在此幢房子經營了數百年。門前所懸的旗幟上的XXX,代表阿姆斯特丹。

In’t Aepien (means “in the monkeys”?), a neighborhood local bar, also one of the oldest wooden houses (dates back to 1475 or 1519) in Amsterdam. On the flag is the Amsterdam Coat of Arms XXX. The XXX symbol is three St. Andrew’s Crosses in white on a black stripe on a red background.

聖尼古拉斯教堂附近,向水壩廣場方向流去的運河。

附近牆上有浮雕。上面刻有拉丁文和荷蘭文。拉丁文 NAVIGARE NECESSE EST 寫著”我們必需要揚帆出海”;下面荷蘭文EERSTE SCHIPVAART NAAR OOSTINDIE 1595 HERDACHT 1945 寫著 “首航東方於1595, 1945年纪念”。原來1595年四月,249名船員駕駛四艘船往東方找尋香料島(應該是印尼群島),開啟荷蘭人漸漸取代葡萄牙人,成為海上強權的時代。1604年,荷蘭人自葡萄牙人手上奪得一船中國瓷器,當時無人識得瓷器,只知它們是來至中國的白色黃金。這批瓷器拍賣得天價,令歐洲人開始「瘋瓷器」。我年輕時,一直不懂為何中國的英文名字叫China?而china 就是瓷器,所以中國就是以瓷器得名,但為何叫China? 西方人原來跟本就不知瓷器為何物,遑論有瓷器一詞。有說是梵文裡叫中國是Cina , 源於秦cin 的讀音云云。但另一說似乎更靠譜,歐洲人發現瓷器後,趨之若鶩,都問那裡來的?答案是「昌南」,昌南乃景徳鎮舊稱,宋真宗愛瓷,才以年號「景德」命其為景徳鎮。荷蘭人做瓷器賺了大錢,直到英國人透過印度東印度公司販瓷至英國,加上德國人在1705(?)年成功做出了硬瓷器,局面才改觀。說遠了,不過如果真的是「昌南」變成「China」,也是蠻有意思的。

A relief of the wall, it says : NAVIGARE NECESSE EST (Latin) = It is necessary to sail ; EERSTE SCHIPVAART NAAR OOSTINDIE 1595 HERDACHT 1945 (Dutch)= First voyage to the east 1595, commemorated 1945.The first Dutch expedition round the Cape to the east looking for spice island (Indonesia) took place in 1595. Two years later, survivors came back with valuable cargo – spices. However, It was not until 1604 when Dutch sailors captured a ship load of porcelain (china) from the Portuguese, they bought them to Amsterdam, the auction turned the porcelain into gold. The kings and noblemen in Europe demanded more “white gold”, that’s why it says “it is necessary to sail”.

水壩廣場 – 位於中央車站西南3/4公里處,是阿姆斯特丹的城市廣場。廣場的一邊豎立有22米高的國家紀念碑。每年五月四號會在此舉行國殤紀念,悼念二次大戰以來的犠牲者。

Dam Square – The city square of Amsterdam. It is about 0.75 km from the Central Station. Standing 22m high,the cone shaped monument is the National Monument. A national Remembrance of the Dead ceremony is held at the monument every year on 4 May to commemorate the casualties of World War II and subsequent armed conflicts.

紀念碑是22米高的錐型設計,用洞石(travertine) 築成。碑前方有浮雕,刻有被鎖鍊扣著的四個男子,代表大戰時所受的苦難。作品名為「和平」。左、右兩邊各有男子,代表荷蘭人的抵抗,左為有識之士,右為勞工階層。

Wikipedia – The central element of the monument is a concrete conical pillar 22 metres (72 ft) in height, covered entirely by white travertine stone. On the front of the pillar is a relief entitled De Vrede (“Peace”), consisting of four chained male figures, representing the suffering endured during the war. To either side of these central figures are two male sculptures representing members of the Dutch resistance, the left figure symbolizing the resistance by the intelligentsia and the right figure symbolizing the resistance by the working classes. Weeping dogs are at their feet, representing suffering and loyalty.

中央上方有一帶小孩的女性,上有鴿子飛翔,此像代表勝利、平安和新生。

Wikipedia – The central relief is a sculpture of a woman with a child in her arms and doves flying around her, representing victory, peace, and new life.

碑的背面刻有一系列鴿子,代表解放。

A relief of the back shows doves ascending into the sky, symbolizing the liberation.

阿姆斯特丹皇宮 (以前是市政㕔)。

Koninklijk Paleis or The Royal Palace Amsterdam (used to be known as the Town Hall on Dam Square), The Palace is the largest and most prestigious building from the Golden Age.

皇宮旁的新教堂,現已改為展覧㕔。

Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) is a 15-century Gothic church standing next to the Palace. The New Church is no longer used for church services but serves as an exhibition hall.

新教堂南面是一大購物商場。

Magna Plaza – a big shopping mall near the Palace.

我們往回走,見一漂亮的中國餐廳。

On our way back to the port, there was a handsome Chinese restaurant.

紅燈區,左邊就是著名的嫖娼博物館。

Red light district, Amsterdam. Museum of Prostitution is on the left.

逛完紅燈區,信步走回碼頭,欣賞運河夜色。

雖是紅燈,這裡是一餐㕔。

This is a restaurant near Arm Bridge.

手臂橋夜色。

Armbrug = Arm Bridge

相中北面就是聖尼可拉教堂的穹頂。

Looking north to a narrow canal, Ouderzijds Kolk. At the back is the dome of Basilica of Saint Nicholas, Sint Nicolaaskerk.

尼古拉斯教堂的穹頂和半圓祭壇。

The dome and the apse of Basilica Saint Nicholás.