
深秋歐陸上河圖之八: 米爾滕貝格 Viking Grand European Tour – 8: Miltenberg Day 5, Mon, N0v 18, 2019
Miltenberg is a town in the Regierungsbezirk of Lower Franconia (Unterfranken) in Bavaria, Germany. It is the seat of the like-named district and has a population of over 9,000.

米爾滕貝格主橋兩端各有中古式的門樓,十分宏偉, 其實這兩門樓是在1900時集資建造的。如果沒記錯,行程第五天的早上,由於船進入水閘區,過程不能快,早上船上安排我們學習德語。午餐後,行進仍繼續。我們經過米爾滕貝格,但沒有泊岸,而是繼續前行至 Freudenberg 才上岸,轉乘巴士回到米爾滕貝格。當日行程有美因河(Main) Spessart 段賞景,所以米爾貝格至 Freudenberg 這一段是船公司特意安排我們賞景的。天色雖然多雲,但偶然會有一點陽光,秋色有點戲劇性的變幻。
This is one of the beautiful bridge towers on Main Bridge of Miltenberg. We spent the morning learning German while passing through locks. On our schedule of the day, we were supposed to have a scenic cruising of Main River, Spessart. I’m not sure which part of the Main River they referred to, probably the section of Main before and after Miltenberg. We passed Miltenberg and moored in the town of Freeudenberg and shuttled back to Miltenberg. We arrived St. Jakobuskirche Church at about 3pm.

自米爾滕貝格至 Freudenberg 一段河段秋色正濃。
Fall colors on the way to Freudenberg.




自米爾滕貝格至 Freudenberg 一段河段秋色正濃。
Fall colors on the way to Freeudenberg.





我們在聖 Jakobus 教堂旁下車,這兒距市集只有一箭之遙。
We got off the bus at St. Jakobuskirche Church, outside the Alter Marktplatz (Old Marketplace).

就在聖Jakobus 教堂旁,有此古舊的「路邊十字架」。顧名思義,這就是設置在路邊的十字架,在歐洲十分普遍。其作用有幾個:1. 標示教徒朝聖的路綫;2. 標示教區範圍 ; 3.標示祝聖區的範圍。
A historic “wayside cross” outside St. Jakobuskirche Church. A “Wayside Cross” is any cross that has been erected by the side of a road. It’s pretty common in Europe. Such a cross was set up to serve as a marker for a pilgrimage route, a mark of the parish or an indication of a sanctified area.


聖 Jakobus 教堂。我們經此進入米爾滕貝格老城時已是下午三時多了。
St. Jakobus Pfarrkirche Church

就在下車處,有一組雕像,叫「小便的少年」。可惜我們到時,已是深秋,裡面的水管已停止供水。(大概是為了過冬、怕冬天結冰,水管爆裂)。

Peeing Boys Statue, Miltenberg. The water was not on, probably due to winterizing.

教堂外牆角的聖像。 Statue at the corner of the church.

著名的歴史老城區,中央文藝復興式的噴水池已被蓋起來,準備過冬了。
“Schnatterloch” – Historical Marketplace. They have already winterized (covered) the fountain.


老街上方是米登堡,米爾貝騰格的堡壘。 Castle Midenburg, above the market place.

米爾騰貝格 以 Half-timbered house 聞名,鎮上有上百所這些老屋。這種老房子為何叫 half-timber? 有多種說法,最直接解釋就是建屋時為節省建材,將一條圓木剖成兩半,濶、平的一面向外,半圓的一面向內,樑檁之間以填充建材封之,並上灰著色,而平木面露於外,僅上色。此種架構就稱為半木之屋。
Miltenberg are well known for Half-timbered houses. There are more than a hundred of them listed. Half-timbered houses are houses built with half-timbering technique. Wikipedia – Half-timbering refers to a structure with a frame of load-bearing timber, creating spaces between the timbers called panels (in German Gefach or Fächer), which are then filled-in with some kind of nonstructural material known as infill. The frame is often left exposed on the exterior of the building.

據說老街上有一較少見的洛可可式房子,用紅色砂岩建成。不知怎的,我沒認真注意,也沒有拍一張全貌,但卻有這幾張照片,應該是房子三條柱子上的浮雕像。浮雕像是以前房子主人家的肖像,中間是男主人,兩邊是他的妻子。特別之處是他們樣貌相似,我原以為是雕塑家功力不夠,但真相是他們樣貌相似是因為他們是表兄妹,準確的說,他們是一夫多妻的表親婚姻家庭。一夫多妻和表親婚姻在十八世紀時並不罕見。
I believe this is the red sandstone Rokokohaus (1750) near the Marketplace. It is said a rare sample of Rococo in this town. I was not paying too much attention to the house except the three relief carvings on the pillars. The three faces were of the family who once owned this house. In the middle was the husband, with his two wives on the sides. What’s interesting is the resemblance. For they were cousins, to be precise, it was a polygyny, cousin marriage which was not uncommon in those days.

Rococo (?) decorations and door.


如果沒記錯的話,這房子應該是米爾滕貝格最老的房子,下圖所見牆外的半木上寫有1333的字樣。
If my memory serves me well, this is the oldest house in town, as written on the timber outside, it was built in 1333.


絆腳石, 10厘米的立方體混凝土塊,其中一面貼嵌了一塊鐫刻著專門紀念文字的黃銅板, 是紀念在德國國家社會主義時期,被納粹政府謀殺、驅逐和逼迫自殺的人 (維基百科)。
Stolpersteine, literally “stumbling stone” or “stumbling block”, is a 10 by 10 centimetres (3.9 in × 3.9 in) concrete cube bearing a brass plate inscribed with the name and life dates of victims of Nazi extermination or persecution (Wikipedia).


老市政廳 – 有關其記載可追溯至1379年。那些年除了作為市政用之外,還作為當時沿河流動商人的臨時賣場和儲放貨物的地方。
Altes Rathaus, the Old Townhouse, dates back to 1379. In those days, it also served as a warehouse and store for merchants doing business along the Main River.


Flood marks on the door frame of the old town hall.

Beautiful half-timbered house,





鎮上 Zum Riesen 是世上最老而仍在營運的旅店之一。600年來,接待過很多歷史人物,包括拿破侖,羅馬皇Frederick 一世…. 和美國歌王皮禮士利。
Zum Riesen – This is one of the oldest hotels, if not the oldest, in the world. It is said that the roster includes Napoleon, Holy Roman Emperors Frederick I and … Elvis Presley.



聖 Johannes 教堂,左邊大樓是現在的市政廳。
Johanneskirche Church, the building on the left is the City Hall.

市政廳牆角上的聖母像。
The statue of Virgin Mary at the corner of City Hall.

街上餅店/咖啡店的招牌。
The sign of a pastry and coffee shop.

Bes Wilh Keller 餐㕔的牌子 – 「逢星期三肘子日,新鮮酥炸紅燒肘子奉客」
Sign of a restaurant – “…jeden Mittwoch ist Haxentag Frisch gebraten rosch serviert ” = ” …every Wednesday is knuckle day, served freshly fried in rosé color”


走到這裡,天色已黑,是時間往回走了。
It’s getting dark, we walked back to the bus pick up point near St. Jakobus Pfarrkirche Church.

華燈初上,老街又展現另一種風情。
Miltenberg is indeed lively and romantic.







