深秋歐陸上河圖之十：班貝格 Viking Grand European Tour – 10: Bamberg, Germany Visited : November 20, 2019 Wednesday

班貝格是上 Franconia 地區的有名古城，1993年被列入世界遺產名錄。十三世紀時，班貝格的主教就是帝國的皇子，坐鎮班貝格統治帝國。

自班貝格開始，我們就進入美因河-多惱河 運河區，這是打通萊恩河至多惱河的運河，由於地勢升高，所以船要經過水閘，拾級而上。早上是過水閘的時間，急不來，船安排燒玻璃專家來到船上為我們作示範表演，大家有新的體驗。中午提早一些吃中飯，然後準備參觀班貝格。

Bamberg is a town in Upper Franconia, on the River Regnitz close to its confluence with the River Main. Bamberg has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. From the 13th century onward the bishops were princes of the Empire and ruled Bamberg.

From Bamberg on, we entered the Rhine-Main-Danube canal connecting the Rhine basins and the Danube. There are 16 locks along the course of the canal. While passing locks, we spent the morning watching a live demonstration of glass blowing from a local glassmaking family. It was a captivating demonstration. Bamberg is an UNESCO World Heritage City, one of the twelve designated in Germany. To my untrained eyes, it is a beautiful medieval town with lots of half-timbered houses.

我們坐了一段路的巴士，來到Regnitz 河邊的音樂㕔旁，開始班貝格的半日遊。我們沿著 Regnitz 河向小威尼斯走去。

We were bused to the Joseph-Keilberth-Saal (Joseph Keilberth Concert Hall) and walked along the left arm of Regnitz River (linker regnitzarm) to cross a bridge near the Little Venice.

音樂廳前的石雕藝術。

Stone art in front of Joseph Keilberth Concert Hall.

河邊的民房相當有特色。Beautiful houses along the Rgenitz River.

班貝格市檔案局, 這一帶的房子都好像有些歷史，而且有各自的建築風格。

Bamberg City Archives. Houses along the river appear to have their own character.

班貝格市檔案局。Bamberg City Archives.

河畔一系列的老房子，左面黃色房子好像是市懲教所。

The yellow building is said to be the Justizvollzugsans, Correctional facility, Bamberg.

Graffiti under the bridge.

這裡就是著名的「小威尼斯」。

Ferienwohnung, “Klein Venedig” or Little Venice.

「小威尼斯」原是漁民的蝸居地，是普羅大眾的樂土。後來由於環境優美，漸漸受中產階級喜愛，現在是知識份子趨之若鶩的聚居點。

Little Venice – A row of half-timbered houses built along the river, formerly occupied by fisherman’s families and those who made a living on the water. It gradually became a popular spot for middle class and now a favorite spot for intellectuals.

過了橋，導遊領著我們走進較窄的街道，每一間都各有特色。

窗前還種著花，完全不是深秋景象。This didn’t look like a late November scene.

德國街頭的壁龕頗多, 動輒都有三、四百年以上的歷史。

Beautiful mini shrine (tabernacle) built at the street corners for local folks to say a prayer when they walk by.  

小小的伊利沙白教堂，非常漂亮。St. Elisabeth Church, small but attractive.

這是教堂前的浮雕，導遊說了一大堆，我忙著找尋視覺的聚焦點，她的話, 我左耳進，右耳出。

Statue and relief carving near the church. Our guide spent quite some time there explaining something to us, I have to confess that I wasn’t paying much attention.

苦路 : 歐洲很多地方都有拜苦路的傳統，在某些地方䜿立有苦路各站，以示耶蘇受難經過的十四個場境，這是苦路的第二處- 耶穌肩負十字重架。

The Bamberg Way of Cross : The Stations of the Cross or the Way of the Cross, also known as the Way of Sorrows or the Via Crucis, refers to a series of images depicting Jesus Christ on the day of his crucifixion and accompanying prayers (Wikipedia).

如沒記錯，導遊好像說過，中古世紀時，偷竊的處罰就是把手砍掉，就如刻在石柱上的圖像所示。

If I remember correctly, our guide said in medieval Bamberg, corporal punishment of stealing was chopping the hand off as shown on the pillar.

小鎮到處都是漂亮的半木老房子。 Beautiful half-timbered houses

記得意大利有很多壁龕，供奉著聖母或其他聖人，沒想到法蘭康尼亞這裡也有不少，不愧曾是聖羅馬帝國的一份子。

Here in this medieval town of Bamberg, there are quite a few of these reliefs or statues hanging in front of houses, similar to those tabernacles in Italy. I don’t know if the proper name for them.

這是鎮內百年的香腸老店。 A 100-year-old sausage shop in Bamberg.

網上說這是一人氣餐廳。 A popular restaurant.

這店是煙火味啤酒的老店，各地”啤酒客”, “啤酒痴”, “啤酒迷” 的朝聖之地。

Schlenkerla Smokebeer, dates back 1405, said to be the original smoked beer of Bamberg. it is a pilgrimage site for beer lovers, or “beer snob” or “beer aficionado” or “beer enthusiast” (whatever they like to be called).

我們不大喝酒，更不懂酒。煙火味啤酒是啥？ 據說是這樣的：大麥釀酒前必須先泡水發芽成麥芽，然後弄乾，中世紀時弄乾的方式有二，一為日晒，一為火焙。用火焙乾的麥芽就會有煙火味，釀成的啤酒也就會有煙火味，這就是 smoked beer 的由來。十八世紀後，業界乾燥麥芽多改用窯乾法，用此法製成的麥芽就沒有了煙火味，釀成的啤酒也就沒有煙火味。Schlenkerla 遵從古法，仍製作古早味的煙味啤酒，所以遠近馳名。

Being a couple of teetotallers (not 100% though), we know nothing about alcohol beverage. We were told that in medieval ages, malts were dried either by sun or over flames. Beer made with malts dried with fire imparted a smoky flavor. Later on, when kiln drying of malt became a standard procedure of beer making, the end product lost the smoky flavor. Nowadays, only a few brewers are still making them, and Schlenkerla is the Mecca of smoked beer.

Schlenkeria 漂亮的招牌。

The beautiful sign of Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Schlenkerla smoked beer).

煙火啤酒店附近的 Scheiner’s Gaststuben， 這家人氣食店的立體招牌相當特別。

The 3D sign of the restaurant Scheiner’s Gaststuben.

班貝格大教堂廣場 Cathedral Square (Domplatz):

班貝格大教堂的東面立面。

The east facade of Bamberger Dom, Bamberg Cathedral.

班貝格大教堂的北面立面。The north facade of Bamberg Cathedral.

大教堂北面過去就是班貝格歷史博物館。

Next to the north facade of the Cathedral is this beautiful building, home to Bamberg Historical Museum.

導遊領我們走過這漂亮的門進入大主教的舊宅。

We were led through the gate north of the museum to the Old Court, Alte Hofthaltung, the former prince-bishop’s palace (as seen below), now part of the Historical Museum.

這中世紀舊宅很有味道，最重要的是左面平房後有現代洗手間，濟人之急，大家欣然排隊參觀。

We were led to admire the beautiful medieval building, and most importantly, there is a paid lavatory behind the building on the left, almost everyone stayed in line to pay their dues.

舊主教府是博物館的一部份。不知道參觀那天是否有開放，博物館網站說因為暖氣問題，要2020 三月才開放參觀。

I’m not sure the Old Court Hall was open at the time of our visit, their website says they won’t be open until March 2020 due heating issues.

班貝格大教堂廣場，用手機拍的全景照。

Cell phone pano of the Cathedral Square (Domplatz): Cathedral (left) – History Museum (Mid) – New Residence (right)

Cell phone pano from another angle: New Residence (left), Cathedral (right).

新主教府：就在舊主教府對面。自1611 至 1802年，就是主教的官邸。現在是州立圖書館和班貝格畫廊，裡面雕樑畫棟，可惜我們沒有時間參觀，只能走進玫瑰園逛逛，那裡地勢高，可遠眺下面的老城區。

The Neue Residenz is a multi-wing, listed building on Cathedral Square. It was the residence of the Bamberg prince-bishops from 1602 and replaced the old court on the other side of the square in this function. Today the sandstone complex houses the State Library and the State Gallery of Bamberg. From the rose garden of the Neue Residenz, we had a panoramic view of the roofs of the town.

新主教府的玫瑰花園，可惜花季已過。 The rose garden of the New Residence.

自玫瑰園看到班貝格全景。

A panoramic view of downtown Bamberg from the balcony of the rose garden.

參觀完玫瑰園，我們轉回主教廣場，進入今天唯一的室內參觀 (其實也是行色怱怱、走馬看花）。

After visiting to the rose garden, we stepped back out to the Cathedral Square and walked across the street to admire the cathedral.

班貝格大教堂 – 現正是樞機主教的座堂，同時也是班貝格世界遺產的一部份。

Bamberg Cathedral, Bamberger Dom, official name Bamberger Dom St. Peter und St. Georg. The cathedral is under the administration of the Roman Catholic Church and is the seat of the Archbishop of Bamberg. Since 1993, the cathedral has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Town of Bamberg” (Wikipedia).

教堂北立面的大門有精緻雕刻，可惜已用同大小的照片封蓋，據說是避免冬天低溫破壞它們。

The north facade of Bamberg Cathedral. The beautiful gate was closed for winter, covered by a live-size picture to protect the carvings.

Portal of the Princes.

北面耳堂的玫瑰窗。 The rosary window on the north transept.

西面立面的木門和木門上的雕刻（上圖）Carving on the portal of the west facade.

大教堂的主祭壇。 The main altar of the cathedral.

北面耳堂的玫瑰窗和哥德式的肋狀天花。

The Gothic rib-vault ceiling and the rosary window of the north transept.

這是北耳堂中供奉聖母的哥德式祭壇，原來是Mühlhausen 新教會教堂的祭壇。

The northern transept holds a late Gothic (c. 1500) altar dedicated to Mary (Mühlhausener Altar). It was previously located in the Protestant parish church of Mühlhausen.  (Wikipedia)

祭壇下方的浮雕。 The lower relief carving of the Mühlhausener Altar.

班貝格騎士 – 在教堂中庭，有石雕騎士像。這騎士到底代表誰，眾說紛紜，莫衷一是。

The Bamberger Reiter – On the northwestern choir column, supported by an Acanthus corbel, stands an equestrian statue known as the Bamberg Horseman (Bamberger Reiter). There is no consensus on who this knight on horseback really was supposed to represent.  

記得這是南面耳堂附近一禮拜堂，雕像的造型加上燈光，十分優美。（還未能找到有関資料）

A statue in a chapel near the south transept, info pending.

南面耳堂的耶蘇誔生祭壇 （1520-3）

The southern transept contains a large Nativity altar by the artist Veit Stoss in 1520-3. (Wikipedia)

神聖羅馬帝國國皇亨利二世和皇后 Kunigunde 的靈框。

Tomb of Emperor Heinrich II and Empress Kunigunde by Tilman Riemenschneider.

亞當門 – 門外有六個雕像，聖史提券，Kunigunde 皇后，亨利皇二世，聖彼得，亞當和夏娃。

Adamspforte – The portal sports figures (replicas) of St. Stephen, Kunigunde, Heinrich II, St. Peter and Adam and Eve. 

從大教堂走下來，遠遠就看到老市政廳，是我很期待的景點。 Walking down from the Cathedral, we came to the beautiful old town hall. On the side of the bridge, there are posterized faces.

在老市政廳旁的 Untere 橋東面有此大型的銅像雕刻，名為 Centurione I，是波蘭藝街家 Igor Mitoraj 的作品。他的作品特色是雕刻都有某程度刻意的破壞。

At the eastern end of the Untere Brucke (bridge) near the old town hall, there is a large bronze sculpture called Centurione I created by Igor Mitoraj (1944 – 2014), a Polish artist and sculptor. This is one of the contemporary art elements of the sculpture path in Bamberg.

而在橋的西面，有聖 Cunigunde (即聖羅馬皇后 Kunigunde) 的塑像。橋上兩個像是班貝格「雕塑之路」的一部份。

On the western end of the Untere Brucke, stands the statue of St. Cunigunde, part of the sculpture path.

塑像後的漂亮房子是海勒屋，亦叫「Wedgwood House」， 因為它塗上歐洲人喜愛的 jasperware 陶器的特有藍色。

The beautiful Heller House, also known as the “Wedgwood House” for it’s Wedgwood blue as that of jasperware first developed by Josiah Wedgwood in the 1770s.

聖 Cunigunde 像。

Statue of St. Cunigunde, as Holy Roman Empress Kunigunde.

班貝格老市政廳

老市政廳建於十四世紀。有趣的是建在 Regnitz 河中間的人工島上。市政廳外牆有令人驚艷的壁畫，可惜原有的壁畫因風化而褪壞，1960 年代由畫家 Anton Greiner 重畫, 用上trompe l’oeil 技法，即用技巧將二維平面繪成三維立體的感覺。市政廳現在改為博物館，收藏不少瓷器，可惜我們沒時間參觀。

The old town hall (Altes Rathaus) of Bamberg.

The old town hall (Altes Rathaus) of Bamberg dates back to the 14th century. It is interestingly located on an artificial island in the Regnitz River. The town hall has eye catching facades created by Johann Anwander, however, the original medieval fresco was lost over time, probably due to weathering. What we see today is a  trompe l’oeil frescoes created by the painter Anton Greiner in the 1960s. We didn’t have a chance to visit the museum. Today it houses a collection of Meissen porcelain and Strassbourg faience, generally known as Ludwig Collection Bamberg (Sammlung Ludwig Bamberg).

Finally, we reached the Old City Hall.

將二維平面繪成三維立體的立面。

A  trompe l’oeil frescoes created by the painter Anton Greiner in the 1960s.

由於時間較緊，加上功課做得不夠，沒看到這𥚃的平面轉立體的特色，所以沒有拍細部的照片。回到家才發現，只能將廣角鏡拍的局部放大，品質就不大好，看官勿怪。

Since we were pressed for time, and most importantly I was not aware of this 3D cherub until I was home. The following two images are enlarged from a wide angle shot, that’s why they are not as sharp.

西立面左面數過來第五隻窗上面屋簷下，有立體的小天使突出；而下面窗子的下沿，畫有小天使，而他的一條腿變成立體伸出，很特別。

The west facade of the old city hall. Note above the fifth window from the left and under the gutter, there is a 3D sculpture of a cherub, and the other one, at the bottom of the lower window, a leg of a cherub protrudes out of the wall from the fresco.

太陽下山，色溫漸變，開始出現淺淺的紫色調，好美。

As the sun went down, the color of the sky began to show a tint of purple color.

天漸黑，我們慢慢走向音樂廰方向去坐車，途中經過老城東的行人專用區，看看店舖的窗櫥。

It was getting dark, we walked back to the bus pick up spot in front of the music hall. We did a little window shopping along the way.

Window shopping

On the way back to the bus drop-off point, we explored the shopping area on the east bank of the Renitz River.

這裡應該就是他們的農產市場，水果、蔬菜一應俱全。

This is probably the Green Market selling fresh produce.

亮了燈的聖馬丁教堂，氣氛特佳。

Sankt Matin Church, love the ambiance.

這攤檔賣的是烤栗子（沒有我們的良鄉栗子好吃，但也暖著手，也暖著心），食著，走著，就到了集合地點。

A vendor selling roasted chestnuts which warmed our hands and our hearts as well.