深秋歐陸上河圖之五:科隆大教堂 Viking Grand European Tour – 5: Cologne Cathedral

彼得門 – 科隆大教堂的十二座門中,以聖彼得門最有代表性,因為它至少部分是中古時代(1370-2380)的遺跡,而其他的門都是以它為範本在十九世紀建造的。Peter portal. The Petersportal is the only one of the twelve portals of the cathedral that was at least partially completed in the Middle Ages (1370-1380). The other portals were designed according to his model in the 19th century.

維基百科 – 科隆主教座堂(Kölner Dom,全名Hohe Domkirche St. Peter und Maria),也稱科隆大教堂,位於德國科隆的一座天主教主教座堂,它是科隆市的標誌性建築物。157公尺高的鐘樓使得它成為德國第二(僅次於烏爾姆市的烏爾姆主教座堂)、世界第三高的教堂,另外也是世界上第三大的哥德式教堂(前兩位是塞維亞主教座堂和米蘭主教座堂),它以法國蘭斯主教堂和亞眠主教座堂為範本,是德國第一座完全按照法國哥特盛期樣式建造的教堂。它從13世紀中起建,工程時斷時續,至1880年才由德皇威廉一世宣告完工,耗時超過600年,直到今日仍然修繕工程不斷。

Wikipedia – Cologne Cathedral (German: Kölner Dom, officially Hohe Domkirche Sankt Petrus, English: Cathedral Church of Saint Peter) is a Catholic cathedral in Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. It is the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and of the administration of the Archdiocese of Cologne. It is a renowned monument of German Catholicism and Gothic architecture and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1996. It is Germany’s most visited landmark, attracting an average of 20,000 people a day. At 157 m (515 ft), the cathedral is currently the tallest twin-spired church in the world, the second tallest church in Europe after Ulm Minster, and the third tallest church in the world.

It is the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe and has the second-tallest spires. The towers for its two huge spires give the cathedral the largest façade of any church in the world. The choir has the largest height to width ratio, 3.6:1, of any medieval church.

Construction of Cologne Cathedral began in 1248 but was halted in 1473, unfinished. Work did not restart until the 1840s, and the edifice was completed to its original Medieval plan in 1880.

從萊恩河東岸的科隆三角大廈頂樓瞭望台望向科隆大教堂。

Cologne Cathedral, as seen from the observation deck of Cologne Triangle.

受時、地所限,未能拍得好的大教堂正門立面圖,只能借用網上此照,1911年Hasak。The west facade of Cologne Cathedral. This picture was taken by Max Hasak in 1911.

大教堂南面立面 The south facade of the cathedral.

從南面能清晰看到飛扶壁 (Flying buttresses)。它是哥德式的特色之一,是一種起支撐作用的建築結構部件,凌空跨越下層附屬空間(如走道)連接到頂部高牆上肋架券的起腳部位,用於平衡肋架拱頂對牆面的側向推力。

The flying buttress is visible from the south facade of Cologne Cathedral. The flying buttress outside the church is one of Gothic architecture’s most prominent features. It allows the weight of the roof to be counterbalanced, enabling greater height for windows.

大教堂的半圓壁龕(apse) 和詩班席位處(choir)。此處可見哥德建築特色的其中兩項,肋狀天花和多而高大的染彩玻璃窗。

The apse and choir of the cathedral, as seen in front of the Volksaltar (the Cross at the lower part of the photo). Two prominent features of Gothic architecture can be seen here, the rib vault and the extensive use of stained glass.

三王祭壇- 網上照片。Photo obtained online.

科隆大教堂寶物甚多,但最有名的就是三王祭壇和三王的骨植金棺(亦稱 Shrine of Magi )。此兩物皆置於教堂半圓壁龕(apse) 處,無法靠近,緣慳一面,只能在網上查看照片。上圖為三王祭壇。

Among other treasures, the most famous possession of Cologne Cathedral is the golden Shrine of the Three Kings and the Shrine of Magi (made 1190-1220 for the bones of the kings brought to Cologne from Milan). These two artifacts are located in the apse where access was denied for the general public on the day of our visit.

我們當天參觀了大教堂兩次,分別是早上十點和下午4:45, 上午跟下午看時的氣氛迥然不同。上午陽光普照,彩色玻璃窗特別漂亮,尤其是南面那一系到的窗,可惜我們只有15分鐘停留時間,所以只能拍张張照片,回家再看了。下午4:45 日已落,天空上發出magic hour 的湛藍色,但教堂內卻亮起更多燈,氣氛也就不同。

We visited the church twice that day, the first time was at around 10 a.m. (we had about 15 minutes for a quick look), the second time was at around 4:45 p.m., note that the color of the windows was blue. That is the effect known to photographers as blue hour or magic hour blue which refers to the color of the sky after sunset.

下午南面耳堂所見。 Looking to the transept of the south side.

上面藍色調子的窗是下午拍的,而下面各圖則是上午受光時拍的。

The stained glass windows appear to have a blue tint at dusk. However, pictures taken in the morning have a totally different tone, as shown below.

此窗中央部份描繪耶蘇死後在聖母懷中的情況。

The center picture depicts Virgin Mary cradling the dead body of Jesus.

巴伐利亞窗 – 是Ludwig 王一世奉獻的。中央的圖描繪五旬節聖靈的降臨。下面放大圖右上角有Ludwig 王一世的盾形紋章。

Bayern window – also known as Bavaria windows which were donated by King Ludwig I. The center picture depicts the descent of the Holy Spirit on the day of Pentecost. The Bavarian coat of arms and the inscription of King Ludwig I from 1848 are attached to the upper corners of the main picture.(info obtained from https://www.koelner-dom.de/fenster/pfingstfenster-1848)

早上的陽光把彩色玻璃的顔色灑落在耳堂上。

The morning sun spilled color from the stained glass window to the transept.

保羅窗 – 描繪聖保羅在去大馬士革的路上歸信基督的場景。

Paul Window – The conversion experience of St. Paul on the way to Damascus is the central theme of the window. This is a 1994 replacement of the 1864 original.

從中庭祭壇回望向西面入口處。

Looking back to the entrance from the Volksaltar。

在中庭祭壇處,遊客不能進入圓型祭壇方向。我就站在修士前兩臂之遙( 我用的15mm 超廣角鏡顯不出這麽近),本想影兩位修士/神父,但又不敢冒犯,只好把鏡頭移向左方構圖。

No admission to the general public at this point near the west transept. The priests’ red robes caught my eyes. I was standing very close to them (the 15mm ultra wide lens I used didn’t do the distance justice), in order not to offend them, I framed this picture this way rather than pointing the camera directly to them.

北耳堂邊上的 Clear 祭壇, 成於1350/60年,原是科隆方濟各會聖嘉勒教堂的主祭壇,後來教堂退役拆毀,祭壇移奉於此。

Clear altar: The winged altar, which was built around 1350/60, was originally in the Franciscan Church of St. Clara in Cologne and, after its secularization and demolition, reached the cathedral. 

在Clear 祭壇後有另一祭壇,惜未能找到資料。At the back of the Clear Altar. Info pending.

右方為聖母祭壇,左方小壁洞內奉著教宗保祿雕像。

Altar of the Madonna of Jewelry(right). Pope relic (left)

十字架禮拜堂。

The Miracle of the Gero Crucifix, in the Chapel of the Cross.

Agilolphus 祭壇。成於1520 年,原是科隆聖瑪利亞教堂主祭壇,1817年移至此。

The Agilolphus Altar, one of the largest and most important Antwerp carved altars, which was formerly the main altar in the Gothic east choir of Cologne’s Collegiate Church of St. Maria ad gradus, probably reached the cathedral in 1817. It was created around 1520.

Tumba 大主敖靈框 (右方),大主教逝於1167,骨植於1290年由羅馬移至此。

Tumba Archbishop Rainald von Dassel. It was not until around 1290 that the bones of the archbishop who died in Rome in 1167 were transferred from the old cathedral to the new Gothic choir building.

聖基斯道化像。成於1470年。聖基斯道化正在背著小耶蘇過河。

St. Christopher. The colored figure of St. Christophorus was created around 1470 by Tilman van der Burch, the leading late Gothic sculptor in Cologne. The saint stands on a console with heraldic angels and walks through a river with ruffled robe, carrying the Christ child with the globe on his back.

Pietà 祭壇。Pietà 通常指聖母抱著死去的耶蘇的場景,此主題多用雕刻表現。祭壇資料待查。

Altar with Pietà Sculpture, information pending.

我們找到這樓梯, 記得資料說大教堂有地室通至羅馬時代的地基(科隆大教堂是在此址上興建的第三座教堂)。下得地室,不是羅馬地基,也不是珍寶展覧㕔,應該是墓地(下圖)。

We found this staircase down to a basement, I thought it was leading to the Roman foundation or the treasure exhibition hall. I was wrong, it appeared to be a burial site, as shown below.

在大教堂半圓祭壇外,排放有許多古舊墓碑。

Ancient gravestones seen at the east side of the apse.