深秋歐陸上河圖之七：萊恩河秋色 Viking Grand European Tour – 7: Middle Rhine Scenic Cruising. Day 4, Sun, Nov 17,2019

我們上午參觀完古堡後，巴士把我們送到 Braubach 的碼頭登船。下午沒有上岸的參觀活動，因為從 Koblenz 開始至65公里上游的Bigen 鎮這一段萊恩河是 UNESCO 世界遺產，特別漂亮，船公司特意讓我們留在船上賞景。

這一段不但是景色好，更因為它是一個有過千年歷史底藴的舞台，不同的國家和文化在這裡上演著眾多的交集，對文學和藝術都有很大的貢獻，不過同時也帶來了戰爭的破壞。這河段，山上有曾守護貿易往來和河道暢通的古堡，斜坡上有釀酒的萄葡園，中古小鎭內百年老屋、中古教堂比比皆是，被稱為浪漫的萊恩河段。

We were bused to Braubach to board our ship after the Marksburg Castle tour. The scheduled program that afternoon was “Scenic Cruising of the Upper Middle Rhine”, popularly known as the Romantic Rhine.

This section of Rhine is also known as “Rhine Gorge” referring to its gorge-like terrain that the river is contained within steep walls 100-150 m high, the most famous example being the Loreley. The river has been important trade route and a stage for cultural converge, and it was also at the center of wars. A string of small medieval towns along the banks provide visitors historic feel of medieval romanticism. The Upper Middle Rhine Valley is designated as an UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002.

UNESCO 世界遺產綱頁的描述：莱茵河中上游河谷

「延绵65公里的莱茵河中游河谷，与河畔的古堡、历史小城、葡萄园一起生动地描述了一段人类与变迁的自然环境相互影响的漫长历史。几个世纪来，这里发生的众多历史事件、演绎的许多传奇，对作家、艺术家和作曲家产生了很大影响。」

UNESCO World Heritage Website: Upper Middle Rhine Valley

The 65km-stretch of the Middle Rhine Valley, with its castles, historic towns and vineyards, graphically illustrates the long history of human involvement with a dramatic and varied natural landscape. It is intimately associated with history and legend and for centuries has exercised a powerful influence on writers, artists and composers.

過了Koblenz, 兩岸不再是平坦，開始有些山陵，河面漸窄而河水較深。所以這一段河段也被稱為「萊恩峽」，最有名的例子是羅蕾萊，那是河東岸上挺立132米的石峰。有些山頭上建有城堡，保護河道貨運之暢通和貿易往來的持續。

Bornhofen 鎮的聖方濟修院。Franciscan and pilgrimage monastery in Bornhofen.

Bornhofen 鎮的聖方濟修院。 Franciscan and pilgrimage monastery in Bornhofen.

Bornhofen 鎮的 Liebenstein 堡。 Liebenstein Castle， Kamp-Bornhofen, Germany.

Bad Salzig 鎮。 Bad Salzig is located across the Rhine of Kano-Bonhofen.

天主教聖艾吉迪斯賽教堂，Bad Salzig鎮。

The church of Sandy Agidius Kath. Pfarramt Bad Dalzig.

聖喬治教堂。 St. Georgkirche. St. George Church, (Bad Salzig)

聖Bartholomaus 教堂，Hirzenach鎮，教堂首建於1250. 原來教堂的彩色玻璃窗收藏於巴黎羅浮宮博物館。

St. Bartholomew Church, Hirzenach (left). Today the lovely stained glass windows can be admired in the Louvre in Paris. Propsteig building (right)

聖思天教堂 – 在萊恩560公里處，有此非常特別的一景。此處有一白色建築物，寫著 Zur Klostschenke, 意即「進教堂處」，原來此屋後有黃色的建築物，是聖思天教堂，惟教堂外無出入口，進出只能經過酒吧。更妙的是，網上有人說，教堂裡的修士/神父如果不太忙的時候，還會在吧枱幫忙呢。

Kath. Pfarrkirche St. Sebastian – At 560 km of the Rhine (counting from the Old Rhine Bridge at Constance, Switzerland), there is a very interesting building. It is called Zur Klostschenke (literally means “to the Monastery/ Church”). The white building is a tavern and has a church, the yellow building, attached to its back. There is no entrance to the church. To enter, parishioners have to go through the tavern. It is mentioned somewhere online that when the priest is not that busy in the church, he works behind the bar counter.

Rheinfels 堡。 Rheinfels Castle, Sankt Goar.

聖若望天主教堂。St. Goarshausen 鎮。 Kath. Kirche St. Johannes， St. Goarshausen.

貓堡 – 在 Burg Katz 鎮上山頂上有一名Katz Castle 的古堡。 初建於1371 年。1806年被拿破倫炮轟，至18096-98重修。後被日本人購入，現在不對外開放。

Burg Katz = Cat Castle is a castle stands on a ledge looking downstream from the riverside at St. Goarshausen. It was first built around 1371. The castle was bombarded in 1806 by Napoleon and rebuilt in 1896–98. It is now privately owned (by Japanese, 日本人所有の古城), and not open for visitors.

貓堡鎮上的漂亮老房子。

Beautiful houses in the town of Altstadt & Burg Katz, below the castle.

貓堡的舊市塔和蘿蕾莉博物館。

Historischer Stadtturm (Historic City Town) & Loreley-Museum

羅蕾萊（德語：Loreley，又作Lorelei) 是一座萊茵河中游東岸高132米的礁石. 最出名羅蕾萊的傳說是，在羅蕾萊礁石上坐著一個名叫羅蕾萊的女人，她用一把金色的木梳梳理著她金色的長髮，過往萊茵河的船員被她美妙的歌聲所吸引，因為沒有注意到危險的湍流和險峻的礁石，而不幸與船隻一起沉入河底。 https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/罗蕾莱

Loreley statue – In 1824, Heinrich Heine adapted Brentano’s theme in one of his most famous poems, “Die Lorelei”. It describes the eponymous female as a sort of siren who, sitting on the cliff above the Rhine and combing her golden hair, unwittingly distracted shipmen with her beauty and song, causing them to crash on the rocks.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lorelei

Oberwesel 鎮中古味道甚濃，城堡、塔、老教堂和老房子樣樣俱全。

岳臣塔，可追溯至羅馬帝國。

Oxen Tower (Ochsenturm) , medieval tower that dates back to Roman period.

聖華納禮拜堂，旁有附屬醫院。

“Saint” Werner’s Chapel, with a hospital.

Schönburg 堡壘酒店。

Schönburg Castle in Oberwesel, one of the beautiful castle hotels in Germany.

Medieval towers.

Church of Our Lady, one-naved aisleless church, dates back to latter half of the 14th century.