深秋歐陸上河圖十一a:美因—多瑙河運河 Viking Grand European Tour – 11a: Main-Danube Canal

美因-多瑙河 運河或稱Ludwigs 運河位置。Main-Donau-Kanal or Ludwigs Kanal (Main-Danube Canal by jailbird, Wikipedia)

上午遊紐侖貝格,中午回船午膳,下午至晚上船繼續過水閘,拾級而上,向運河最高點(分水嶺進發。船上的行程主任給我們做了一個介紹,讓我們知道水閘如何運作。雖然我們有了一些概念,但”只緣身在此山中”, 無緣在岸上看過究竟,所以行程主任把幾張照片發給我們,讓我們可從其他角度來看。這裡收集的是她給的照片和網上的資料,加上自身在船上的體驗,所以對”廬山真面目” 也就有認識了。活到老,學到老,學習了,感謝!

美因—多瑙河運河(德語:Main-Donau-Kanal;英語:Main–Danube Canal)位於德國東南部,是一條透過萊茵河東岸最大支流美因河連通多瑙河的人工水道。北起美因河畔班貝格,南至多瑙河畔凱爾海姆,長171公里。1992年7月31日正式通航。運河連接了歐洲大陸上的萊茵河和多瑙河兩大水系,縮短了北海與黑海之間的內河航程,對東、西歐間的貨運交通及歐洲內陸國的對外聯繫均具重要意義 (維基百科 – https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/美因-多瑙河运河)。

After the city tour of Nuremberg, we went taken back to the ship for lunch. There were optional tours in the afternoon for some and shuttle bus for those who wanted to have free shopping time in Nuremberg. Meanwhile, our ship continued to climb up to the summit of of the canal. We were given an introduction to the Rhine-Main_Danube Waterway and the Main-Danube Canal, it was a good talk and very educational, photos (shown below) were presented to allow us to see how the locks work. Built with reinforced concrete and with steel lock gates, today’s lock heights extended to approximately 30 meters. Yes, we’ve learned something new everyday !

The Rhine–Main–Danube Canal (German: Rhein-Main-Donau-Kanal; also called Main-Danube Canal, RMD Canal or Europa Canal), in Bavaria, Germany, connects the Main and the Danube rivers across the European Watershed, running from Bamberg via Nuremberg to Kelheim. The canal connects the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea, providing a navigable artery between the Rhine delta (at Rotterdam in the Netherlands), and the Danube Delta in south-eastern Romania and south-western Ukraine (or Constanța, through the Danube–Black Sea Canal). The present canal was completed in 1992 and is 171 kilometres (106 mi) long (Wikipedia –https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhine%E2%80%93Main%E2%80%93Danube_Canal).

萊Map of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, by jailbird, Wikipedia.
美因-多瑙訶的剖面圖 Profile of the canal showing the locks by jailbird (Wikipedia)

維基百科的資料,美因-多瑙訶的剖面圖顯示自紐侖貝格至分水嶺最高點,我們要過六個水閘,每一個水閘的深度由~20米至24.7米。另外,大家都知道有一段運河會在高於公路上行進,所以很多人就坐在休息大堂中等候,突然,有人說,”我們下面有公路和車子呀”, 大家怱怱跑出去見識這奇景。

As shown in the profile above, we had passed 6 locks since Bamberg, and 4 more to go, the depth of the last four locks from Nuremberg to the summit of the canal are pretty deep, between ~20 – 24.7 m high. Near the town of Neuses, out of the blue, we found ourselves on top of a freeway, we could see the headlights of the cars down below.

舉起手機,也只能紀錄到上面這樣。下圖是Viking 給的圖片,非常清楚示出陸上行舟的廬山真面目。

The photo below, provided by Viking, shows what it is like when the long ship is passing a highway, from the perspectives of those who are standing ashore.

上圖,從岸上往下看 Viking 長船過水閘的情景。下圖是我們在船上往上看的感覺。

Photo provided by Viking Cruise to show how passing a deep lock is like 👆when looking down from above.

當時是下午4:45分,還不是最後一個水閘,不過,連續幾個水閘都有 20-25 米的深度。

This is 👆 what we see from our perspective on the deck, we were passing one of those 20 m deep locks after Nuremberg heading up to European Continental Divide. The time was 4:45 pm.

我們吃過晚餐,再到船頭去等越過運河的最高點。到了晚上8:54分我們終於來到標示分水嶺的紀念碑,也就是運河的最高點。理論上,雨水下在碑的兩邊會分別流向西入北海或向東流入黑海。

We passed the Summit of Main-Danube Canal at 8:54pm that evening, as marked by this European Continental Divide Monument, located in Hilpoltstein.

順便一提,河運水位的高低常會影響河輪的前進。水太高,船會碰到橋 ; 水太低,會過不了淺灘。我們全程算是幸運,除了有一段因水位高,不能上陽台甲板外,行進順利,不用巴士接駁換船。下面的圖顯示陽台甲板的應變舉措。

I was told that we had been lucky that we didn’t have to deal with the problems created by extreme low water or extreme high water level that requires bus transfer to another ship. Actually we had high water issue for days, crews had to collapse the whole sundeck, as shown below, and we were not allowed to go up there.

深秋歐陸上河圖十一:紐侖貝格 Viking Grand European Tour – 11: Nuremberg, Germany

深秋歐陸上河圖十一:紐侖貝格 Viking Grand European Tour – 11: Nuremberg, Germany Visited: Thu, Nov 21,2019 Day 8

紐侖貝格是巴伐利亞的第二大城,因在第二次世界大戰所扮演的角色而聞名於世。1933年納粹黨奪權後,連續六年在紐侖貝格舉行黨代表大會,那成為納粹重要的政治宣傳。1946年歐洲國際軍事法庭審納粹戰犯亦特意在紐侖貝格進行。盟軍反攻時,紐侖貝格受多次空襲,全城受損嚴重,在1950代開始重建,我們參觀皇家堡壘時,裡面仍進行修復。我對那些有關人性黑暗面的歷史不感興趣,只想看看美的元素,可惜遊覽項目 Surviving the war : Art in Nuremberg 甚受歡迎,額滿見遺,我們只好參加市內遊。早上巴士來接,外面下著小雨,巴士帶我們經過當年希特拉納粹用作舉行大會的會場,又經過那類似羅馬鬥獸場般宏偉,但未建成的納粹國會大殿。最後終將我們送到皇家堡壘城牆的外面,那時雨也停了,正好開始城中遊。

Nuremberg is the second largest city in Bavaria, it is well known for the role it played in World War II, first as the site of Nazi rallies and later as the site of war crimes trial. I’m not interested in the history of World War II or the rise and fall of the Nazi Regime, fortunately Nuremberg has a lot to offer. As one can imagine, with its significant role in Nazi Regime, Nuremberg had suffered extensive damages during air raids during WWII. However, the 13th century city wall and a lot of the medieval building remain standing, to my untrained eyes, the whole city had been reconstructed pretty much the way it was, a beautiful medieval town. At the time of our visit, It was an overcast morning with light rain, the bus tour first drove by the site of Nazi rallies and the site of trials, the Palace of Justice, and the Nazi Congress Hall as well. We got dropped off at a drop off point just outside the ancient wall of the Imperial Castle to begin out city tour of Nuremberg.

入口處有點怪,在舊城場外,一跨過城場就是一架空的彎形的橋,經過了橋就進入一隧道,通過後經過一段上行的小道,我們就站在皇室堡壘的外院了。

The entrance was actually an elevated bridge, vestnertorbrücke, that led us to an ascending tunnel-like passage (inside the building called Eimmart Memorial), after passing through the tunnel and then a couple of turns, we were standing at the outer courtyard of the castle.

上面兩圖,清晰可見舊的石牆,特別的是每一塊石中間都有一小圓洞。

This is part of the medieval wall of the castle.

導遊讓我們看了一張示意圖,小洞的作用就明白了。我對古代匠人的「妙計」特感興趣。

A close look of the stones revealed a hole on each of them. Our guide showed us an illustration which clearly demonstrated the use of the hole.

進了這門才真的是進了皇室堡壘的範圍,右門的是Sinwell塔, Sinwell 在中古德語是”十分圓”的意思。

Looking up the Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower) at the forecourt of the Imperial Castle.

這外院尤如一高台,是俯覧舊城的制高點,難怪前人在此處建堡。不過,如下圖所示,二次大戰時,盟軍空襲令舊城受破壞嚴重,歴經30年的重建始有今日模樣。

The forecourt offered an excellent panoramic view of the city, however, as shown in the picture below, the city suffered extensive damages from air raids during WW2….

….apparently, folks in Nuremberg have been doing a good job in re-building and restoring the city. The spires of St. Lawrence Church (left), St. Salbad Church (right)

右邊的尖塔就是聖Salbad 教堂,而左邊遠處的應該是聖Lorenz教堂。

Inside the court of Imperial Castle.

The courtyard with Heidenturm (Heathens’ Tower), Kaiserkapelle (Imperial Chapel, roof with an orb).

四方形的是綽號叫「異教徒塔」,源於1500s 年代羅馬皇帝到訪,堡內忙將塔內有異教徒色彩的東西清除,故有此稱號。後面屋頂上有圓球處是皇家禮拜堂。

The square tower is known as the Heathen’s tower, it got this nickname in the 1500s, before a visit by a very important VIP, Emperor Charles V , he was the Holy Roman Emperor and Archduke of Austria from 1519, King of Spain from 1516, folks in the Imperial Castle had to clean out all the sculptures, paintings containing heather elements.

進入皇家禮拜堂門上的徽章,非常精美。

The carvings on the top of the gate to the Kaiserkapelle (Imperial Chapel) caught my eyes.

新修復的 Castellan’s House, 即原來城堡監督之宅第。

The newly renovated/restored Castellan’s House has apartments, a shop and ticket office.

城監宅第旁的秘書處建築正進行修復式重建。

Next to the Castellan’s House, the Secretarial Building and Finance Barn, building in front of the Castellan’s House, are under restoration and renovation.

回望城門側的圓塔,前面屋子內有深井,是堡內唯一的水源。

Tiefer Brunnen, (Deep well, building with gable roof, the only water source in the castle in medieval time) and Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower).

我們並沒有機會參觀城堡內部。看完外院內院外,就開始向下走,這宅子應該也是古堡一部份吧。四方塔外有木建築,看來就像馬士堡城堡的厠所。

We began our descend on foot to the old town. This is another building which I believe is part of the Imperial Castle.

This wooden extension from the tower reminded me of the toilet hanging on the outer wall of Marksburg Castle we had visited a few days earlier.

不一會,我們來到堡街,沿著街道走,就會到聖母教堂前的廣場。

Descending to the Burgstraße street that led us to the old market place.

Looking back up to the Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower). The Imperial Castle also suffered extensive damage from air raids during WW2, it took them 30 years to have it rebuilt and restored to the state it is today, and restoration and renovation are on going even at the time of our visit.

上圖是市博物館屋頂上的建築元索。

Architectural elements on top of the Fembohaus, City Museum at Fembo House.

在街角上的聖母像。

Statues of St, Mary at the corner of houses,

這是以前城中富商大宅,說是唯一幸存的後期文藝復興式的建築。現改成紐侖貝格的市博物館,收藏不少瓷器。

Fembohaus, City Museum at Fembo House. Halfway down from the Imperial Castle to the old town, we saw this museum called Fembojhaus, claimed to be the only surviving large Late Renaissance merchant’s house in Nuremberg.

市政廳,原來老市政廳在二次大戰受空襲破壞,此建築是戰後重建的,卻能修舊如舊。

The City Hall of Nuremberg and its beautiful doors. The original city hall was burnt to the ground in 1945. What we see standing here today were re-constructed in the 1950s.

市政廳的三座門。

The three gates of the City Hall.

新教 Sebaldus 教堂。 Protestant St. Sebald Church.

城中 Sebaldus 教堂,我們只經過教堂後面去看著名的中古噴泉,所以連教堂前門都沒去看,遑論進去參觀了。教堂後有精緻浮雕,是Schreyer-Landauer 兩家的紀念碑(下圖)。

St. Sebaldus Church (Sebalduskirche), built from 1225-73, east facade. Note the Schreyer-Landauer monument at the exterior of the apse of the church, as shown below.

就在教堂聖詩班位置外,有一大型浮雕,是 Schroeder-Landauer 兩家族的紀念碑,成於1492。

Schreyer-Landauer Monument,1490-1492 (Adam Kraft)

上圖左方手持鐵鎚的就是創作此浮雕的藝術家 Adam Kraft。

The man on the left, holding a hammer, was the sculptor, Adam Kraft, who created this masterpiece.

此浮雕外有鐵欄保護,取景不易,我只能將相機伸進𥚃面去拍,可惜同組的朋友很多,也不能遮擋他們,所以随便拍幾張就走開了。

The monument is protected by iron fence. I had literally a minute to take pictures of this monument and got out of the way of my fellow ship-mates.

左面描繪耶蘇的殮葬。

The Entombment of Christ.

Entombment of Christ (middle)

Bratwursthäusle,是本地人稱為聖思博教堂旁的燒香腸屋,據說是全世界最老的香腸餐廳。朋友和老妻去買著名的香腸包,我就趁此機會去拍”漂亮的水池”。回來嚐了一口,味道嘛…

Bratwursthäusle bei St. Sebald (Roasted Sausage House near St. Sebald) next to St. Sebald Church, said to be the oldest sausage restaurant in the world, we didn’t have chance to sit down and eat, but ordered the original “Nuremberger” (since 1419) to go.

中古水泉 – 我實在被 brunnen 這個字撹混了,皇室堡內的古井,也叫brunnen, 其他古鎮內的噴泉也叫brunnen。所以我就取巧叫水泉了。

Schoner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain – For me, this was the highlight of the day.

中古水泉: 在教堂過去一點,在市集的邊上,有一座極其漂亮的中古水泉。我們到的那天,市集上正在趕建聖誔攤位,水泉被遮擋著,只能近攝,不能遠觀。水泉池水部分已經停止供水,雕像上的出水口亦沒有水流出,看來是為了過冬。原來14世紀的雕像用沙岩雕成,風化嚴重,已移入博物館珍藏。這些是二十世紀初的複製品,相當精緻。

Schöner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain is a 14th-century Gothic fountain standing at the edge of the market place. The fountain soars 19 m upward and features 40 colorful figures that represent the world view of the Holy Roman Empire. Shown in the picture is a replica of the late 14th-century original which was made of sandstone and badly eroded. At the time of our visit, the fountain must have been winterized for the season as there was no running water coming out of the spouts.

這𥚃有幾層人像,好些寫有名字,上圖右方(下圖則在左方)的人像是歐幾里得, 希臘化時代的數學家,被稱為「幾何學之父」。

At the lower level, there are a total of eight statues represent The great spirits of the Greek and Roman antiquity. On the right (the photo above, and left in the photo below) is Euclid, a Greek mathematician, often referred to as the “founder of geometry” or the “father of geometry”.

多納圖斯, 活動於公元4世紀前後的修辭家和文法學家,也是哲羅姆的老師,353年前後居於羅馬。他所著的兩本語法書在中世紀仍在使用,並成為後來及至現代的語法基礎。

Aelius Donatus (on the right, mid-fourth century AD) was a Roman grammarian and teacher of rhetoric.

在多納圖斯後面的一位應該是福音派教會的四位教父之一。

Sitting behind Donatus is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

左邊這位是克勞狄烏斯·托勒密 – 是數學家、天文學家、地理學家、占星家,公元168年於埃及亞歷山卓逝世。最為著名的便是他所提出的「天動說」。(維基百科)

Ptolemaeus (Latin) = Claudius Ptolemy was a Greek mathematician, astronomer, geographer and astrologer. Behind him is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

亞里斯多德, 古希臘哲學家

Aristotle (Aristotélēs), a Greek philosopher. Behind him is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

馬庫斯·圖利烏斯·西塞羅(Marcus Tullius Cicero), 是羅馬帝國晚期的哲學家、政治家、律師、作家、雄辯家。

Cicero (right) – Marcus Tullius Cicero was a Roman statesman, orator, lawyer and philosopher,

福音派教父之一。

One of the four evangelists and church fathers.

One of the four evangelists and church fathers.

畢達哥拉斯, 古希臘哲學家 Pythagoras – Greek philosopher

水泉外的保護鉄籠十分漂亮,在相對的兩方,各鑲有一活動銅環,傳說轉動它會夢想成真。

This is one of the two movable rings “buckled” in the wrought iron fence, called the Wishing Rings, it is said that turning the rings would bring good luck and fulfill the wishes of those who turn them.

廣場另一邊,有座聖母教堂,原來是新教教堂,於1816年,紐侖堡成為巴伐利亞一部分,教堂成為天主教區的一分子。教堂最出名的是立面上方的全機械報時鐘。

On the other side of the square stands the Church of Our Lady. Formerly a Protestant church, it was gifted to the Catholic parishioners in 1816 when Nuremberg became part of Bavaria. The mechanical clock, Männleinlaufen, at the facade is a distinct feature of the church.

聖母教堂過去一點就看到這顯眼的雕塑,名為「一船儍瓜」,故事源於16世紀 Sebastian Brant 的名著,船上是被逐的亞當和夏娃,主題是世界的破落。

Just a stone’s throw away from Church of Our Lady, we found this stunning sculpture, called the Ship of Fools, based on Sebastian Brant’s book (not to be mixed up with the new Ship of Fools: How a Selfish Ruling Class Is Bringing America to the Brink of Revolution).

上圖,被逐出樂園的亞當和夏娃,站在旁邊是他們的兒子Cain, 表情怪異,手上提著一把刀。

Above, showing the expelled Adam and Eve, with their creepy-looking son Cain holding a knife by their side.

塑像另一邊,夏娃和亞當身後是乾枯了的智慧之樹,旁邊有一骷髏拿著一根棒(?)作勢要打。

Behind Eva and Adam is the withered tree of wisdom, a skeleton is holding a club(?) about to strike.

在夏娃和亞當的身後有一拿著棒的壯男和一個拿著螺絲扳手的工人。我不知道如何解讀,但可以感到那暴力、不安、混亂…. 坦白說,是一個非常強而有力的作品,但看起來沒有令人太愉悅。

On this side of the ship, a muscular man with a club and a handyman with a spanner. I don’t know how to interpret, but I can feel the violence, bewilderment, chaos…..to be honest, a very powerful masterpiece, but not a very pleasant feeling.

聖母教堂早已敲過中午的報時,也快到集合上車回船午膳。飯後有車送我們回市內購物。我其實還有幾個點去拍照,奈何天色太差,我就有點意興闌珊,沒有再來,在船上休息, 等待晚上過分水嶺的最高點。

After taking a few picture of this powerful sculpture, it was time to head back to the rendezvous near the Beautiful Fountain and head back to our ship for lunch. Shuttle buses were available for folks who wanted to come back to do a little shopping in the afternoon. The heavily overcasting sky turned me off, we relaxed on board and locking forward to the highest point of the watershed.

深秋歐陸上河圖之一:行程回顧 Viking Grand European Tour -1: Itinerary highlights

新年快樂 ! 老話說:「十年修得同船渡」,這次有幸在維京歐洲遊與各位新知舊雨”同船渡”了十四天,真箇是有緣。 那天還跟鄰桌的 Edward 兄聊了一陣,相談甚歡。好些朋友看到我背著那些重重的老舊相機來玩,以為我是攝影師,其實不然,只是老頭退休後圓梦而已。因為沒受過訓練,只是不停的按快門,作個紀錄吧了。這次十一月遊歐,並不是理想時間,因為十一月日照已短,且陰雨時間多,照片難拍得好,只是2019行程滿滿,也騰不出其他時間,所以權充探路之旅。照片雖然不好,也放上來大家看看。原來的網頁日久失修,千瘡百孔,修復需時,所以乾脆開此新頁。不過Wordpress 的平台不停的更新,用起來沒有太得心應手,先po 了再說,邊po 邊改。

Viking Grand European Tour

Happy New Year ! To my tour mates of Viking Tir, we arrived home safe and sound, just in time for our first (2nd and 3rd thereafter) snow of the season. Since then, we have been juggling between shoveling, Christmas shopping and photo editing. I have briefly ran through the whole collection. I had not taken a lot of photos as I would normally have because of the overcast weather and short daylight. Anyhow, I am going to put them up to share with you here in this new blog (I have some technical issues with my old one, my Chinese writing pad is no longer compatible with my updated computer software). My plan is to share with you these highlights and then I’ll put up a post for each day, very likely in reverse Chronological order. I am not done with the photo editing just yet, please be patient, and I’ll keep you posted.

© Viking River Cruise

第一天,荷蘭阿姆司特丹。我們十月剛去過加勒比海的荷屬三島,Curacao 島上的建築和色彩令我對阿姆司特丹有很大的期望。可惜,這裡沒有鮮艷的色彩,加上正在建造地鐵,很多地方都圍了板,市容有點雜亂無章,令人失望。我們跟著 welcome tour 走了一半,就離隊去逛幾個點,包括著名的紅燈區。

Day 1 Amsterdam, The Netherlands We visited the ABC islands, in the Caribbean Sea, in October. They are part of the Kingdom of Netherlands. I was so impressed of their stunning, colorful architecture, said to be replicates of those in the Netherlands. However, I was a little disappointed of the colors seen here in Amsterdam during our welcome tour except perhaps the red lights.

這次乘搭的船是維京Tir 號,是2019年3月才下水的新船。

Viking Tir – The son of Hymir in Norse mythology, Tir is the god of heroic glory.

阿姆斯特丹中央車站,漂亮的建築、可惜附近修建地鐵,到處都是圍板。

Amsterdam Grand Central Station

In’t Aepien 是阿姆斯特丹有名的老酒吧,已在此幢房子經營了數百年。門前所懸的旗幟上的XXX,代表阿姆斯特丹。

In’t Aepien (means “in the monkeys”?), a neighborhood local bar, also one of the oldest wooden houses (dates back to 1475 or 1519) in Amsterdam. On the flag is the Amsterdam Coat of Arms XXX. The XXX symbol is three St. Andrew’s Crosses in white on a black stripe on a red background.

老市政㕔前廣場,這位busking 討賞的藝人用此法逗樂了廣場上眾多的遊人。 In front of the Old City Hall of Amsterdam, a new way of busking, bringing visitors a lot of the fun.

紅燈區,左邊就是著名的嫖娼博物館。 Red light district, Amsterdam. Museum of Prostitution is on the left.

逛完紅燈區,信步走回碼頭,欣賞運河夜色。相中北面就是聖尼可拉教堂的穹頂。 Looking north to a narrow canal, Ouderzijds Kolk. At the back is the dome of Basilica of Saint Nicholas, Sint Nicolaaskerk.

第二天 小孩堤防

Day 2 Kinderdijk, The Netherlands

小孩堤防坐落在兩河交滙處,因為地勢低窪,為了將水排出低窪開拓地,1740年建立一個由19座風車组成的系统。所有的風車都由受過訓練的志工運轉和維護。小孩堤防風車群已成為成為荷蘭最知名的景点之一,於1997年列入世界遺產名錄。

Wikipedia – The windmills at Kinderdijk are a group of 19 monumental windmills in the Alblasserwaardpolder, in the province of South Holland, Netherlands. Most of the mills are part of the village of Kinderdijk in the municipality of Molenwaard. Built in 1738 and 1740, to keep water out of the polder, it is the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands and one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites.

第三天 德國科隆

Day 3 Cologne, Germany

Standing on the observation deck of Koln Triangle, looking over the Rhine to Cologne Cathedral.

站在萊恩河東岸科隆三角大樓的瞭望台,西望古龍大教堂。

霍恩佐倫橋上行人道旁的鐵絲網上,掛滿世界各地情侶的情人鎖。

It appears to be a tradition here for lovers to hang padlocks from the bridge to immortalize their love.

科隆大教堂內 Inside Cologne Cathedral.

萊恩河西岸河邊步道望向聖馬丁教堂。 Looking west to the Great St. Martin Church from the park before heading back to our ship and called it a day.

第四天 德國 科布倫茨

Day 4 Koblenz, Germany

德國 科布倫茨 是漂亮的中古小鎮,可惜只有半天遊程,我們就跟大隊去參觀古堡,科布倫茨鎮內遊就留待下回吧。維京輪首先停泊在此處讓我們上車去古堡。所以只有幾分鐘時間怱怱看一眼。此乃紀念Kaiser Willemstad 的紀念碑。

The German Corner, Deutsches Ecl – Kaiser-Wilhem-Denkmal is a monument located at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel rivers. We had only a couple of minutes to visit the site before heading to the bus that took us to Marksburg Castle.

晨起,大霧,在河岸邊根本看不到古堡,而古堡上也看不到河上美景。中午下山時,濃霧稍散,終於得見古堡模樣。

Marksburg Castle, it was a misty morning, the air was so foggy that we couldn’t even see the river below from the castle. This picture was taken when we got down to the parking lot at noon.

古堡內的餐廳,窗前採光較好,僻為讀書坐臥處。有趣的是,中間門內就是厠所,厠所懸空於外牆。據說,主人如厠時,廁門仍會大開,継續與賓客杯酒言歡云云。

The dining hall, note that the door in the middle is the toilet overhanging the outer wall. It is said that the door of the toilet was always open so as to keep the conversation going.

堡內設有禮拜室,頂上裝飾成哥德式肋狀天花.

The beautiful chapel, with ribbed-vault ceiling.

古堡內有展室展出中古武士甲胄。 Medieval armors on display.

第四天下午,萊恩河賞景。

Day 4, PM, Middle Rhine Scenic Cruising.

在萊恩560公里處,有此非常特別的一景。此處有一白色建築物,寫著 Zur Klostschenke, 意即「進教堂處」,原來此屋後有黃色的建築物,是一所教堂,唯教堂外無入口,進出唯有經過酒吧。更妙的是,網上有人說,教堂裡的修士/神父如果不太忙的時候,還會在酒吧內幫忙呢。

At 560 km of the Rhine (counting from the Old Rhine Bridge at Constance, Switzerland), there is a very interesting building. It is called Zur Klostschenke (literally means “to the Monastery/ Church”). The white building is a tavern and has a church, the yellow building, attached to its back. There is no entrance to the church. To enter, parishioners have to go through the tavern. It is mentioned somewhere online that when the priest is not that busy in the church, he works behind the bar counter.

第五天 德國 米爾騰貝格

Day 5 Miltenberg, Germany

米爾騰貝格 秋意正濃

米爾騰貝格 以 Half-timbered house 聞名,鎮上有上百所這些老屋。這種老房子為何叫 half-timber? 有多種說法,最直接解釋就是建屋時為節省建材,將一條圓木剖成兩半,濶、平的一面向外,半圓的一面向內,樑檁之間以填充建材封之,並上灰著色,而平木面露於外,僅上色。此種架構就稱為半木之屋。

Miltenberg are well known for Half-timbered houses. There are about 100 of them listed.

鎮上 Zum Riesen 是世上最老而仍在營運的旅店之一。600年來,接待過很多歷史人物,包括拿破侖,羅馬皇Frederick 一世…. 和美國歌王皮禮士利。

Zum Riesen – This is one of the oldest hotels, if not the oldest, in the world. It is said that the roster includes Napoleon, Holy Roman Emperors Frederick I and … Elvis Presley.

華燈初上,老城主街上溫馨浪漫。小山上的是小鎮城堡。

The romantic main street of the old town. Mildenburg castle can be seen here posted above of the market place.

第六天,德國 維爾茨堡皇宮

Day 6 Wurzburg, Germany. Wurzburg Residenz

在皇宮前中庭用手機拍的 pano。

A pano of the Residenz taken with an iPhone.

我在皇宮內沒有拍照,朋友在知道不能拍照前,用手機拍了兩張。上面是樓梯間穹頂上的壁畫,出自意大利壁畫家Tiepolo之手,繪畫世界四大洲的風情。下面是二樓南面的白室(White Hall) 。白室連接東面的皇室大㕔Imperial Hall 和南面的居室。白室天花和牆上有 A. Bossi 在1744-45 所作的裝飾浮雕。為了彰顯皇室大廳的金碧輝煌,此室特意用上低調的白色。

These two pictures had been taken by a friend with her cell phone before realizing photography was not allowed. The one above shows the Baroque-style staircase with the famous ceiling fresco by Tiepolo. The photo below shows the white Hall with elaborate stucco work by A Bossi in 1744-45.

第七天 德國 班貝格

Day 7 Bamberg, Germany

小威尼斯,原本是勞動階層的聚居處,現在成了中產階級 趨之若鶩的理想居停。

Little Venice, Ferienwohnung “Klein Venedig”

哥德式的聖馬丁教堂 St. Martin Church, Sankt Martin.

聖馬丁教堂的肋狀天花 The cribbed vault of St. Martin.

座落於 Regnitz 河上的老市政㕔。

The beautiful City Hall stands on a small island on Regnitz River.

第七天 下午 美茵河-多惱河 運河。從貝爾格開始,游輪進入美茵河-多惱河 運河。維基百科:美因—多瑙河運河(德語:Main-Donau-Kanal;英語:Main–Danube Canal)位於德國東南部,是一條透過萊茵河東岸最大支流美因河連通多瑙河的人工水道。北起美因河畔班貝格,南至多瑙河畔凱爾海姆,長171公里。1992年7月31日正式通航。運河連接了歐洲大陸上的萊茵河和多瑙河兩大水系。

Day 7 Main-Danube Canal. Wikipedia: “The Rhine-Main-Danube Canal (also called Main-Danube Canal, or Europa Canal), in Bavaria, Germany, connects the Main and the Danube rivers across the European Watershed, running from Bamber via Nuremberg to Kelheim”. Viking River Cruise : The Main-Danube Canal employs 16 stair-step river locks that allow vessels to travel 2200 miles through 10 countries, from the North Sea coast of Holland to the Black Sea Shores of Romania.

美因河-多惱河 運河,維基百科

Map of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, by jailbird, Wikipedia

運河水閘圖,維基百科。

Profile of the canal showing the locks, by jailbird, Wikipedia.

下午四點多,經過其中一個頗深的水閘。

Passing one of the deepest locks.

這就是運河分水嶺最高點,亦即是自這點東、西兩方,雨水分別流入北海或黑海。

Passing the summit of the European Main Watershed near Pierheim, Germany at 8:53 pm, local time.

第八天 德國 紐侖堡

Day 8 Nuremberg, Germany

紐侖堡保存有頗完整的中古的城牆和堡壘。這是皇家城堡。

Imperial Castle, Kaiserburg

城中 新教 Sebaldus 教堂,我們只經過教堂後面去看著名的中古噴泉,所以連教堂前門都沒去看,遑論進去參觀了。教堂後有精緻浮雕,是Schreyer-Landauer 兩家的紀念碑(下圖)。

Protestant St. Sebaldus Church (Sebalduskirche), built from 1225-73, east facade. Note the Schreyer-Landauer monument at the exterior of the apse of the church, as shown below.

在教堂過去一點,在市集的邊上,有一座極其漂亮的中古噴泉。我們到的那天,市集上正在趕建聖誔攤位,噴泉被遮擋著,只能近攝,不能遠觀。噴泉池水部分已經封上木板過冬,雕像上的出水口亦沒有水流出。原來14世紀的雕像用沙岩雕成,風化嚴重,已移入博物館珍藏。

Schoner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain stands at the edge of the market place. The fountain soars 19 m upward and features 40 colorful figures that represent the world view of the Holy Roman Empire. Shown in the picture is a replica of the late 14th-century original which was made of sandstone and badly eroded. At the time of our visit, the lower part of the fountain was covered for overwintering and no water was running from the spouts.

第九天 德國 雷根司堡

Day 9 Regensburg, Germany

就在遊輪停泊處不遠,巴洛利亞歷史博物館前,是2019年10月才竪立的8.6 米長金色雕像 – 金鯰魚。

The Golden Waller, a newly erected golden catfish sculpture in front of the new Museum of Bavarian Hisotry. It is 8.6 meters long and weighs 870 kg.

「大衞與巨人」壁畫。原作成於1573,房子則建於1260。

David and Goliath wall mural. The House of Goliath was built in 1260.

雷根司堡大教堂,又稱聖彼得大教堂內部。

The nave of Regensburg Cathedral or St. Peter Cathedral.

夜幕低垂,我們看完 Stadtamhof 區的建築,步過老石橋往回走。

第十天 德國 帕紹

Day 10 Passau, Germany

晨起,薄霧鎖萊恩。吃完早餐,雲霧消散,喜見藍天。

It was a bit misty in the morning, however, it turned out to be a bright, lovely, sunny day,

老市政廳外牆壁畫,這些是1922年所繪的現代壁畫,原有的中世紀壁畫已無跡可尋。我們早上隨導遊經過這裡,本想下午再來。奈何早上去聖史蒂芬教堂時有彌撒進行,只好下午再去,結果忘了再來市政廰,據說裡面有不少壁畫,可惜。

This fresco on the outside wall of the Old City Hall of Passau was created in 1922 to replace the old medieval ones. It is said that there were more fresco inside the city hall. We plan to visit the inside of the city hall in the afternoon. Unfortunately, I was preoccupied with St Peter Church and was following the sunlight to the Marienbrucke bridge and totally forgot to visit the city hall again.

下午看完聖史蒂芬教堂,隨著陽光來到南面的 Marienbrucke 橋上走走,回望教堂和岸邊的步道。

Looking to the St Stephen Cathedral and the Promenade.

著名的聖史蒂芬教堂為巴洛式(有說是洛可可Rococo式)建築,教堂內裝飾極其華麗。

The beautiful Baroque St. Stephen Cathedral.

有光線射入教堂,令雕像更有戱劇性。

The afternoon sun added a magic touch to statues inside the church.

第十一天 奧地利 梅爾克

Day 11 am, Melk, Austria

在修道院外的露台望向梅爾克鎮。

Melk, as seen from the balcony of the Abbey.

梅爾克修道院是奧地利第一個皇朝House of Babenberg 的幾位成員的長眠之地。

Melk Abbey is a Benedictine abbey above the town of Melk, on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube.

進入修道院剪票處後就不能拍照,上下兩張是剪票處前所拍的。

These two pictures were taken before the entrance of the exhibition halls, once inside, photo and video are now allowed.

走廊天花上的壁畫。 Ceiling fresco of the corridor.

第十一天下午,瓦雷河谷賞景。

Day 11 pm, Scenic Cuising: Wachau Valley and Krems, Austria

克雷姆斯 (Krems) 附近一渡輪碼頭旁竪有一巨型鼻子,這是近年一藝街創作團體在瓦雷河谷附近一帶中古城鎮裝置一系列的裝置藝術品,此為其中一件,廣受歡迎。

The giant nose at Krems, Austria. A 14m high concrete nose was created by the art group Gelitin who built the famous giant pink rabbit.

遊輪在克雷姆斯靠岸,讓團友上岸參觀市集,由於天色實在太昏暗,我就沒去。

Walking the dog along the Danube, Krems, Austria.

第十二天 奧地利 維也納

Day 12 Vienna, Austria

上午有半天市區導遊,由Maria Theresia 紀念碑開始遊維也納。據說奧地利 Habsburg 皇朝的掌權者喜歡為自己樹立紀念碑,有點像現正人拍selfie 一樣,唯獨此碑例外,這是Maria Theresia 的継任人給她立的碑。

Maria Theresia Memorial, Near Natural History Museum. It is said that most of the Habsburg emperors likes to build monuments to themselves, this one was built by one of her successors

聖斯蒂芬大教堂

Saint Stephen’s Cathedral

聖斯蒂芬大教堂中庭

The nave of St. Stephen Cathedral.

距聖斯芬大教堂一箭之遙,有另一教堂,聖彼得教堂。多日來看的教堂大多是哥德式的,突然看到有此巴洛式的教堂,眼前一亮。

Peterskirche, a Baroque Roman Catholic parish church in Vienna, Austria.

第十三天 維也納翌日

Day 13 Vienna, Austria

離船泊碼頭不遠處,見此羅馬式教堂,聖方濟各亞西西教堂,頗為宏偉。第一天下午曾去參觀,只是沒開。第二天早上去坐地鐵前再走過來參覌。

Hl. Franz von Assis, St. Francis of Assisi Church is a basilica-style catholic church a stone’s throw from our docking port. After visiting all those Gothic churches, I was curious to find out what this Romanesque church is like.

教堂內的伊利沙白禮拜堂。堂外有大鉄閘與教堂中堂分開,不能內進參觀,裡面沒亮照明。在意大利看教堂的經騐告訴我,通常在鉄閘後都會有好東西。站了幾分鐘,眼睛適應了,就看到穹頂上漂亮的金色鑲嵌畫。

Elizabeth Chapel. It was behind a locked gate, it was pretty dark inside, however, my church hopping experience told me to wait for my eyes to adapt to the light. A couple of minutes later, I saw this beautiful dome with gold mosaics. The image at the lower part is believed to be an image of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary.  

第十四天上午 維也納 Naschmarkt 市場

Day 14 am, Vienna, Austria. Naschmarkt

維也納最大的市集,除餐廳外,周末還有跳蚤市場。

Naschmarkt, The Market.

第十三天下午 市政廳前聖誕市場

Day 13 pm, Vienna. Christmas Market at Rathaus, City Hall.

Christmas Market, City Hall

奧地利國家劇院 (市政廳對面)

Austrian National Theater

還願教堂 Votive Church – 1853奧地利皇在此地遭行刺,被救保命,故建此歌德式教堂感恩。這是我的私人景點,此教堂離市政廰不遠,我獨自走過來看看,相當不錯的教堂。

Votivkirche,  A neo-Gothic church built in 1856-1879 to thank God for saving the Emperor of Austria from an assassination.

主祭壇

The choir and the main altar.

這應該是在聖母禮拜堂上的彩色玻璃畫。

Beautiful stained-glass window in a chapel.

第十三天 晚上,船過斯洛伐克

Day 13 evening, cruising through Slovakia

布拉迪斯拉發城堡 Bratislava Castle

第十四天 匈牙利 布達佩斯

Day 14 Budapest, Hungary

不知何故,我記得前一晚聽到宣佈說早上6:30 會經過多惱河東岸的匈牙利國會大廈。早上七點多才天亮,所以祈望6:30時國會還亮著燈,經過時拍照可漂亮呢。沒想到,掏出手機,看到 GPS 的位置,原來我攪錯了,還有一段路呢。不過,一個戱劇性的晨曦獎賞了我的早起。

I thought I’d heard announcement about passing the Parliament building at 6:30 am. I was hoping by 6:30 am, the illumination would still on, so I could take a good picture of the Parliament Building. Unfortunately, I was wrong, we were not even close by 7:00am. However, the spectacular sun rise had made it up to me.

終於,我們在 7:59 經過匈牙利國會大樓。

We finally passed the Parliament Building at 7:59 that morning.

回望西岸,聖馬蒂斯教堂在小山上,岸邊的紅棕色的新教會教堂。

Looking west to the Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church up on the hill. The brown church at water front is Szilágyi Dezső Square Reformed Church.

在自由橋前面,左邊有兩船處就是維京輪的停泊處。

Viking River Cruise Port (the doubled-parked long ships) near Liberty Bridge.

漁夫稜堡 Fisherman’s Bastion

聖馬蒂斯教堂 Matthias Church

The main altar of Matthias Church.

Magnificent murals inside Matthias Church as seen from the 2nd floor balcony.

布達佩斯大市場。The Great Market Hall

市場前有熟食攤位,還供應熱紅酒。

Care for some hot red wine?

回來後為了回顧去過的地方,重看了一些資料,也乖乖抄錄一些在這裡供大家參考。往後的各集中,將盡量採用維基百科的資料,因為是開放版權。我在某些景點也買了些小書,有用的資料也會抄錄一些。各位請請,下回再會。

We walked back to the ship and began to pack, it was a great trip even though the sky was not always bright. Hopefully we would be back soon in a warm day with longer daylight.

Auf Wiedersehen !