深秋歐陸上河圖十一：紐侖貝格 Viking Grand European Tour – 11: Nuremberg, Germany Visited: Thu, Nov 21,2019 Day 8

紐侖貝格是巴伐利亞的第二大城，因在第二次世界大戰所扮演的角色而聞名於世。1933年納粹黨奪權後，連續六年在紐侖貝格舉行黨代表大會，那成為納粹重要的政治宣傳。1946年歐洲國際軍事法庭審納粹戰犯亦特意在紐侖貝格進行。盟軍反攻時，紐侖貝格受多次空襲，全城受損嚴重，在1950代開始重建，我們參觀皇家堡壘時，裡面仍進行修復。我對那些有關人性黑暗面的歷史不感興趣，只想看看美的元素，可惜遊覽項目 Surviving the war : Art in Nuremberg 甚受歡迎，額滿見遺，我們只好參加市內遊。早上巴士來接，外面下著小雨，巴士帶我們經過當年希特拉納粹用作舉行大會的會場，又經過那類似羅馬鬥獸場般宏偉，但未建成的納粹國會大殿。最後終將我們送到皇家堡壘城牆的外面，那時雨也停了，正好開始城中遊。

Nuremberg is the second largest city in Bavaria, it is well known for the role it played in World War II, first as the site of Nazi rallies and later as the site of war crimes trial. I’m not interested in the history of World War II or the rise and fall of the Nazi Regime, fortunately Nuremberg has a lot to offer. As one can imagine, with its significant role in Nazi Regime, Nuremberg had suffered extensive damages during air raids during WWII. However, the 13th century city wall and a lot of the medieval building remain standing, to my untrained eyes, the whole city had been reconstructed pretty much the way it was, a beautiful medieval town. At the time of our visit, It was an overcast morning with light rain, the bus tour first drove by the site of Nazi rallies and the site of trials, the Palace of Justice, and the Nazi Congress Hall as well. We got dropped off at a drop off point just outside the ancient wall of the Imperial Castle to begin out city tour of Nuremberg.

入口處有點怪，在舊城場外，一跨過城場就是一架空的彎形的橋，經過了橋就進入一隧道，通過後經過一段上行的小道，我們就站在皇室堡壘的外院了。

The entrance was actually an elevated bridge, vestnertorbrücke, that led us to an ascending tunnel-like passage (inside the building called Eimmart Memorial), after passing through the tunnel and then a couple of turns, we were standing at the outer courtyard of the castle.

上面兩圖，清晰可見舊的石牆，特別的是每一塊石中間都有一小圓洞。

This is part of the medieval wall of the castle.

導遊讓我們看了一張示意圖，小洞的作用就明白了。我對古代匠人的「妙計」特感興趣。

A close look of the stones revealed a hole on each of them. Our guide showed us an illustration which clearly demonstrated the use of the hole.

進了這門才真的是進了皇室堡壘的範圍，右門的是Sinwell塔, Sinwell 在中古德語是”十分圓”的意思。

Looking up the Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower) at the forecourt of the Imperial Castle.

這外院尤如一高台，是俯覧舊城的制高點，難怪前人在此處建堡。不過，如下圖所示，二次大戰時，盟軍空襲令舊城受破壞嚴重，歴經30年的重建始有今日模樣。

The forecourt offered an excellent panoramic view of the city, however, as shown in the picture below, the city suffered extensive damages from air raids during WW2….

….apparently, folks in Nuremberg have been doing a good job in re-building and restoring the city. The spires of St. Lawrence Church (left), St. Salbad Church (right)

右邊的尖塔就是聖Salbad 教堂，而左邊遠處的應該是聖Lorenz教堂。

Inside the court of Imperial Castle.

The courtyard with Heidenturm (Heathens’ Tower), Kaiserkapelle (Imperial Chapel, roof with an orb).

四方形的是綽號叫「異教徒塔」，源於1500s 年代羅馬皇帝到訪，堡內忙將塔內有異教徒色彩的東西清除，故有此稱號。後面屋頂上有圓球處是皇家禮拜堂。

The square tower is known as the Heathen’s tower, it got this nickname in the 1500s, before a visit by a very important VIP, Emperor Charles V , he was the Holy Roman Emperor and Archduke of Austria from 1519, King of Spain from 1516, folks in the Imperial Castle had to clean out all the sculptures, paintings containing heather elements.

進入皇家禮拜堂門上的徽章，非常精美。

The carvings on the top of the gate to the Kaiserkapelle (Imperial Chapel) caught my eyes.

新修復的 Castellan’s House, 即原來城堡監督之宅第。

The newly renovated/restored Castellan’s House has apartments, a shop and ticket office.

城監宅第旁的秘書處建築正進行修復式重建。

Next to the Castellan’s House, the Secretarial Building and Finance Barn, building in front of the Castellan’s House, are under restoration and renovation.

回望城門側的圓塔，前面屋子內有深井，是堡內唯一的水源。

Tiefer Brunnen, (Deep well, building with gable roof, the only water source in the castle in medieval time) and Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower).

我們並沒有機會參觀城堡內部。看完外院內院外，就開始向下走，這宅子應該也是古堡一部份吧。四方塔外有木建築，看來就像馬士堡城堡的厠所。

We began our descend on foot to the old town. This is another building which I believe is part of the Imperial Castle.

This wooden extension from the tower reminded me of the toilet hanging on the outer wall of Marksburg Castle we had visited a few days earlier.

不一會，我們來到堡街，沿著街道走，就會到聖母教堂前的廣場。

Descending to the Burgstraße street that led us to the old market place.

Looking back up to the Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower). The Imperial Castle also suffered extensive damage from air raids during WW2, it took them 30 years to have it rebuilt and restored to the state it is today, and restoration and renovation are on going even at the time of our visit.

上圖是市博物館屋頂上的建築元索。

Architectural elements on top of the Fembohaus, City Museum at Fembo House.

在街角上的聖母像。

Statues of St, Mary at the corner of houses,

這是以前城中富商大宅，說是唯一幸存的後期文藝復興式的建築。現改成紐侖貝格的市博物館，收藏不少瓷器。

Fembohaus, City Museum at Fembo House. Halfway down from the Imperial Castle to the old town, we saw this museum called Fembojhaus, claimed to be the only surviving large Late Renaissance merchant’s house in Nuremberg.

市政廳，原來老市政廳在二次大戰受空襲破壞，此建築是戰後重建的，卻能修舊如舊。

The City Hall of Nuremberg and its beautiful doors. The original city hall was burnt to the ground in 1945. What we see standing here today were re-constructed in the 1950s.

市政廳的三座門。

The three gates of the City Hall.

新教 Sebaldus 教堂。 Protestant St. Sebald Church.

城中 Sebaldus 教堂，我們只經過教堂後面去看著名的中古噴泉，所以連教堂前門都沒去看，遑論進去參觀了。教堂後有精緻浮雕，是Schreyer-Landauer 兩家的紀念碑（下圖）。

St. Sebaldus Church (Sebalduskirche), built from 1225-73, east facade. Note the Schreyer-Landauer monument at the exterior of the apse of the church, as shown below.

就在教堂聖詩班位置外，有一大型浮雕，是 Schroeder-Landauer 兩家族的紀念碑，成於1492。

Schreyer-Landauer Monument,1490-1492 (Adam Kraft)

上圖左方手持鐵鎚的就是創作此浮雕的藝術家 Adam Kraft。

The man on the left, holding a hammer, was the sculptor, Adam Kraft, who created this masterpiece.

此浮雕外有鐵欄保護，取景不易，我只能將相機伸進𥚃面去拍，可惜同組的朋友很多，也不能遮擋他們，所以随便拍幾張就走開了。

The monument is protected by iron fence. I had literally a minute to take pictures of this monument and got out of the way of my fellow ship-mates.

左面描繪耶蘇的殮葬。

The Entombment of Christ.

Entombment of Christ (middle)

Bratwursthäusle，是本地人稱為聖思博教堂旁的燒香腸屋，據說是全世界最老的香腸餐廳。朋友和老妻去買著名的香腸包，我就趁此機會去拍”漂亮的水池”。回來嚐了一口，味道嘛…

Bratwursthäusle bei St. Sebald (Roasted Sausage House near St. Sebald) next to St. Sebald Church, said to be the oldest sausage restaurant in the world, we didn’t have chance to sit down and eat, but ordered the original “Nuremberger” (since 1419) to go.

中古水泉 – 我實在被 brunnen 這個字撹混了，皇室堡內的古井，也叫brunnen, 其他古鎮內的噴泉也叫brunnen。所以我就取巧叫水泉了。

Schoner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain – For me, this was the highlight of the day.

中古水泉: 在教堂過去一點，在市集的邊上，有一座極其漂亮的中古水泉。我們到的那天，市集上正在趕建聖誔攤位，水泉被遮擋著，只能近攝，不能遠觀。水泉池水部分已經停止供水，雕像上的出水口亦沒有水流出，看來是為了過冬。原來14世紀的雕像用沙岩雕成，風化嚴重，已移入博物館珍藏。這些是二十世紀初的複製品，相當精緻。

Schöner Brunnen or Beautiful Fountain is a 14th-century Gothic fountain standing at the edge of the market place. The fountain soars 19 m upward and features 40 colorful figures that represent the world view of the Holy Roman Empire. Shown in the picture is a replica of the late 14th-century original which was made of sandstone and badly eroded. At the time of our visit, the fountain must have been winterized for the season as there was no running water coming out of the spouts.

這𥚃有幾層人像，好些寫有名字，上圖右方（下圖則在左方）的人像是歐幾里得, 希臘化時代的數學家，被稱為「幾何學之父」。

At the lower level, there are a total of eight statues represent The great spirits of the Greek and Roman antiquity. On the right (the photo above, and left in the photo below) is Euclid, a Greek mathematician, often referred to as the “founder of geometry” or the “father of geometry”.

多納圖斯, 活動於公元4世紀前後的修辭家和文法學家，也是哲羅姆的老師，353年前後居於羅馬。他所著的兩本語法書在中世紀仍在使用，並成為後來及至現代的語法基礎。

Aelius Donatus (on the right, mid-fourth century AD) was a Roman grammarian and teacher of rhetoric.

在多納圖斯後面的一位應該是福音派教會的四位教父之一。

Sitting behind Donatus is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

左邊這位是克勞狄烏斯·托勒密 – 是數學家、天文學家、地理學家、占星家，公元168年於埃及亞歷山卓逝世。最為著名的便是他所提出的「天動說」。（維基百科）

Ptolemaeus (Latin) = Claudius Ptolemy was a Greek mathematician, astronomer, geographer and astrologer. Behind him is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

亞里斯多德, 古希臘哲學家

Aristotle (Aristotélēs), a Greek philosopher. Behind him is the statue of one of the four evangelists and church fathers.

馬庫斯·圖利烏斯·西塞羅（Marcus Tullius Cicero), 是羅馬帝國晚期的哲學家、政治家、律師、作家、雄辯家。

Cicero (right) – Marcus Tullius Cicero was a Roman statesman, orator, lawyer and philosopher,

福音派教父之一。

One of the four evangelists and church fathers.

One of the four evangelists and church fathers.

畢達哥拉斯, 古希臘哲學家 Pythagoras – Greek philosopher

水泉外的保護鉄籠十分漂亮，在相對的兩方，各鑲有一活動銅環，傳說轉動它會夢想成真。

This is one of the two movable rings “buckled” in the wrought iron fence, called the Wishing Rings, it is said that turning the rings would bring good luck and fulfill the wishes of those who turn them.

廣場另一邊，有座聖母教堂，原來是新教教堂，於1816年，紐侖堡成為巴伐利亞一部分，教堂成為天主教區的一分子。教堂最出名的是立面上方的全機械報時鐘。

On the other side of the square stands the Church of Our Lady. Formerly a Protestant church, it was gifted to the Catholic parishioners in 1816 when Nuremberg became part of Bavaria. The mechanical clock, Männleinlaufen, at the facade is a distinct feature of the church.

聖母教堂過去一點就看到這顯眼的雕塑，名為「一船儍瓜」，故事源於16世紀 Sebastian Brant 的名著，船上是被逐的亞當和夏娃，主題是世界的破落。

Just a stone’s throw away from Church of Our Lady, we found this stunning sculpture, called the Ship of Fools, based on Sebastian Brant’s book (not to be mixed up with the new Ship of Fools: How a Selfish Ruling Class Is Bringing America to the Brink of Revolution).

上圖，被逐出樂園的亞當和夏娃，站在旁邊是他們的兒子Cain, 表情怪異，手上提著一把刀。

Above, showing the expelled Adam and Eve, with their creepy-looking son Cain holding a knife by their side.

塑像另一邊，夏娃和亞當身後是乾枯了的智慧之樹，旁邊有一骷髏拿著一根棒（？）作勢要打。

Behind Eva and Adam is the withered tree of wisdom, a skeleton is holding a club(?) about to strike.

在夏娃和亞當的身後有一拿著棒的壯男和一個拿著螺絲扳手的工人。我不知道如何解讀，但可以感到那暴力、不安、混亂…. 坦白說，是一個非常強而有力的作品，但看起來沒有令人太愉悅。

On this side of the ship, a muscular man with a club and a handyman with a spanner. I don’t know how to interpret, but I can feel the violence, bewilderment, chaos…..to be honest, a very powerful masterpiece, but not a very pleasant feeling.

聖母教堂早已敲過中午的報時，也快到集合上車回船午膳。飯後有車送我們回市內購物。我其實還有幾個點去拍照，奈何天色太差，我就有點意興闌珊，沒有再來，在船上休息, 等待晚上過分水嶺的最高點。

After taking a few picture of this powerful sculpture, it was time to head back to the rendezvous near the Beautiful Fountain and head back to our ship for lunch. Shuttle buses were available for folks who wanted to come back to do a little shopping in the afternoon. The heavily overcasting sky turned me off, we relaxed on board and locking forward to the highest point of the watershed.